Day 25 Prague to Budapest by train. A day of some stress and not much walking

The day started far too early with revelers coming home at 4:06 and shouting all the way. I hadn’t gotten into a deep sleep from them going out last night at 2 am! So I pretended to go back to sleep, but was wide awake. At 5 I just got up and began to upload photos and that took the next 2 ½ hours. Packed my bags and was at breakfast when it opened at 7:30. As usual my tummy was churning before travelling, so not much breakfast and an extra tablet. I was waiting for the taxi at 7:50. I had to pay 90 kn for the city tax to the hotel. The hotel receptionist gave me a small gift too. The Savic was a lovely place to stay and I’d highly recommend it.

A nice young taxi man arrived and took my bag. He didn’t say anything at all and I prepared for the usual circuitous trip. I did have a moment’s query as he crossed the river? But as we kept on driving and seemed to be getting no closer to the station, I said” Are we going to the station?” He replied, “The train?” and checked his phone. It said I was going to the airport! So he did a u-turn. Despite  heavy traffic going towards the city we arrived at the station with not much time to spare. The taxi cost from the hotel is set at €14 but I gave him €20 because of all the hassles he had. I knew I had to get my Euro Rail pass stamped before the journey, but there was nothing in English to show a ticket place/ somewhere to get this pass stamped. In fact there wasn’t much of anything. I asked a random man who was sitting close to the entrance. Luckily he spoke wonderful English and was able to help. In fact he was catching the same train. Bonus. But by now I certainly did not have time to go investigating a ticket office. (In Budapest it was clearly marked in English specially for Euro Rail passes)

Any wonder there was nothing to see on the ground level- the action was all on the floors below. Down the escalators to Aladdin’s cave. Shops and platforms all around. He was able to tell me which platform the train was going to be on (4) and did offer to put my bag up for me- but I managed by myself. The train arrived within five minutes and I had to find my carriage and then lug my bag up four steps- not easy with a narrow door. Found my spot and “oh no”. An old lady was sitting in my seat by the window. I showed her my ticket and she gave me the “I don’t know what you are talking about message”. So I checked the seat numbers again (there are only 8 seats in this carriage!!!!! Four were empty and she had mine. So we went through the pantomime again with the same result and I thought – too bad dearie my seat. So I went out and got a conductor. He checked her ticket and told her to move. If looks could kill, I’d be fried. But she did and sat opposite and glared at me the whole time.

A very nice young man sat next to me and as we travelled along we had a bit of a chat. I did my usual sell of Australia. I settled down to upload yesterday’s photos using the train’s WiFi. I think it was actually faster than the hotel’s and soon I’d caught up with the photos. .

The journey went through very similar countryside to our trip to Cezky Krumlov, with both rural and built up towns. Most of the landscape is rural with endless fields of newly sewn grain, not as much rape as the bus trip. Only maybe five stops on the journey to Wein/ Vienna? The train travelled along at about 140 km/h sometimes as high as 160km/h. The countryside varied from flat to hilly. Sometimes larger farms and sometimes small holdings in the backyards. A few small rivers and it looks like it rained recently with water still in some of the paddocks.

I drank two cups of tea on the train- € 3.40 and in first class you get a free bottle of water and a discount on your drinks. As you go across the border the next country has to check your tickets. Because I had filled out my Euro Rail Pass but didn’t have it stamped both conductors were happy – BUT I had to make sure it was stamped at Vienna.

We arrived at Wien/ Vienna on time, I had to get off and the nice young man took my bag off for me  Thought of Heather and her German as I tried to find the ticket office. Not on the platform but once again a floor below and even more impressive selection of shops down there, But it took a while to find the ticket place- then I had to take a ticket and wait for 10 minutes, to be served. Crowds of people to be served and only four desks open and five people doing something else? But a lovely young concierge was able to help a bit. Eventually I was served by two people. One must have been in training. So the whole process had to be explained to the trainee. My ticket was eventually stamped. After another quick stop to find my platform, I was up that escalator and waiting on platform 9. In less than 10 minutes the train pulled in and then I had the long walk right to the second last carriage. Despite being in “First” it was nothing compared to the first train, including the toilets. Really disconcerting to have all the seats facing one way and the train travelling “backwards”. Very difficult to see anything and the stewards never bothered to come around and take an order, unlike the first one where you could grab his attention. I ended up going to the buffet carriage and getting a cuppa and a salad. (Interesting salad- basically carrot and possibly turnips/ swedes julienned together with some slivers of radishes. 1 salad and 1 cup of tea = €9.

The country along this part of the trip started in Austria and transformed in Hungary and there were significant differences between the two. Hungary had more obvious poverty and “Communist looking “  buildings. More rundown buildings too and general rubbish. And the weather changed into storm clouds and a brief spot of rain. There were more stops at little run down stations than on the first leg of the journey. Once again the tickets were checked twice- in each country.

What was similar on the whole journey through three countries were the masses of red poppies growing in the fields, woods and edges of the tracks. I’d never seen them like that before and of course especially on the anniversary of the fighting on the Western front very significant for Australians. When I mentioned it to my first travelling companion it had no connection at all.

We arrived in Budapest 5 minutes late. I had pre-booked a taxi, so I just had to wait to find the man with the sign. Hundreds got off the train/ headed onto the train. I went up and down the platform four times and was starting to really panic and get angry at the same time. Not my idea of fun to manage a case and backpack on a bus/ domestic train to an unknown destination. Eventually 20 minutes later my phone rang and it was the driver, who said he’d been looking for me. He was a lovely guy but there was NO way that he had been where he said he was. I’d gone past five times and not seen him, while I had seen others. I think he had been caught in the traffic, which was awful. He’d been to Australia and loved it so we had quite a chat in the heavy traffic to the hotel.

Budapest is nowhere as pretty as Prague. Reason? Hitler loved the city of Prague and spared it. He hated Budapest and bombed it, then the communists bombed the rest in 1947. 

It was quite complicated to get to the hotel reception, so I was glad the driver was taking me up from the garage where he had to park the van but couldn't locate the elevator? (I found out it was his first day as a driver) Checked in- after giving them my maiden name and my mum’s maiden name. I thought at the time- that’s my identity gone to the highest buyer? The receptionist had to show me up to my room- no way on earth you could begin to get there by following directions. So she carried my bag up the two flights of steps- thank you God.

Fabulous room. Three times the size of Amsterdam. The bathroom was bigger than my bedroom in Amsterdam. It’s a self- contained apartment. Lots of positives but also a few negatives- like dirty hand marks on the walls, no desk- I’m sitting on the bed to type-, cupboards designed by a giant with a sense of humour- I couldn’t even reach the clothes hangers, minimal power outlets- and quite dark at night. But fridge, sink, jug, toaster, tea/ instant coffee sachets and the usual crockery/ cutlery/ pots/ pan for two and a hot plate, but no microwave? And other than marks on the walls, well presented.

Dumped my things then went to the nearby supermarket and imagine my JOY!!!!!! Not only GF but LF products too. So if Hungary can do it, every place should. Bought some supplies to make some meals. 4291 huf = $21.45. Next time I’m taking my Hungarian dictionary. No idea what some of the products were. Some with pictures were obvious, but others - even the pictures didn’t help. A short walk back to the apartment, put away the shopping and had a shower. My ankles were quite swollen, even with travelling socks. I was surprised because it had been train travel and I'd never had that problem on the plane?

I made a fresh salad with cooked potato and a fried piece of stale GF bread, washed down by a cup of tea. Then sat on the bed to type up my diary. Already 9:45.

Day 24 The Loreta and Strahov Monastery over near Prague castle

7 kms and a lovely day

Woke at 3 am, so I read my guide book and went back to sleep, before waking again at 7. I set off at 9 over the bridge and up the hill. Slightly lost at one point half way up the hill near the embassies, but eventually made it to the top, walking past the Castle and up to “The Loreta”.

The Loreta is a collection of old convent buildings. Just as I arrived the beautiful bells starting chiming. I paid 210 kn, which included a camera licence! That was almost the same price as a ticket but I could happily snap away to my heart’s content. It used to provide lodging for the pilgrims, since 1626, as evidenced by the number of shells incorporated into designs. One reason for the pilgrims was “the Holy Hut”- more like a miniature mansion. Legend says that Mary’s house was miraculously transported from Nazareth to Loreto in Italy in 1278 to save it from the infidels. This house and others claim to have small segments of the original house. I tend to be a real sceptic when it comes to the claims about the authenticity of relics, but there are many faithful who believe. This little chapel replicates Mary’s house in Italy. The sculptural work on the outside was wonderful. 

The Church of the Nativity was another example of 1722 extreme baroque style with the usual frescoes and lots of gold and marble. However to one side was a beautifully simple modern prayer chapel, which gave me more of a sense of God. There were many little chapels to specific saints but possibly the most bizarre was St. Starosta, who prayed to grow a beard to escape from being married. So her father crucified her!

Upstairs was “The Loreta Treasury” – a collection of vestments and religious items. Some stunning gold and silver work, several amazing monstrances including one made in 1699 and which had 6222 diamonds! Very shiny. Some fabulous examples of fine filigree work.

There was an interesting information section about different orders of priests and monks and their work in communities over time. Helping people during times of Plague and dying in the process. But possibly most significant at this remembrance time for the Czechs those priests in WW2. Some “fought”, some hid Jews/ other wanted people, and some who were just caught up in the terror of the process A number lost their lives either in WW2, or later during the Communist rule. One of the saddest was a German priest who ministered in the country during the war and was rounded up with other Germans and forced on a death march by the locals in retaliation for the German atrocities.

After all that information I left and headed for the café over the road for a well -earned cup of delicious tea. From here I headed down the hill and up the hill (Found later that there was a road going around the back of the hill) to the Strahov Capuchin Monastery. Made it in time to hear the bells tolling for 12. Unfortunately that was both good and bad. Fabulous to hear the bells tolling for ten minutes. Bad because that meant it was now closed for a lunch break! So close and yet not. So I took photos from the outside and of the parkland below and set off down the hill, over the bridge and back to the hotel where I dropped off my backpack. 

Then I went out to find a restaurant for lunch. It was only 2 pm, but the one I wanted to try that advertised GF, was not at all accommodating and told me I needed a booking for lunch. There were six people in the place? So I went back to my hotel where I ordered and ate the MOST delicious steak and potatoes. The steak was so tender. Cooked perfectly to medium rare, but they served it with twelve tiny potatoes cut into halves= 24 pieces of potato! I couldn’t manage the last 6 pieces so they were my dinner. Well worth every cent of 569kn ($34) Staggered up the stairs, downloaded photos and wrote in my diary. (6:30: time for a dinner break) Bed at 11 after packing, while uploading. Internet speed exceptionally slow tonight.

Day 23 Clock Tower and Castle

Day 23 Clock Tower and Castle

9.8 kms and so many steps (600+)

Woke before the alarm and finished linking and sending off yesterday’s email. Packed my umbrella and coat for the forecast rain. Breakfast and then headed off to the Town Hall meeting place for the replacement tour. I was there so quickly, because I didn’t get lost! And then I remembered I wanted my guidebook for later, so I returned to the hotel picked it up and got back there without getting lost again!

The guide turned up around 9:25 and organised my ticket for the tower and English speaking guide for the Town Hall tour. Up I went to the top of the first section- level 1. Then you change lifts to get to the top of the tower and what a view! 360 and great day for photos. And I got a great view because there were only a few up there early.  I went down, after forgetting where we had to meet, just in time to catch the English speaking group tour of the Town Hall.

Incredible views from above

The Astronomical clock is currently being repaired for their big celebrations in September. The Town Hall was quite fascinating and even better you can take photos on the tour. The guide was great. The underground section was even more interesting, especially with the connection this week of the resistance fighters and Liberation Day. What was interesting was to see the original street level. It used to be almost a whole floor lower. Besides the very old history, in modern history the entire wing of the building and part of the tower was destroyed in 1945 by the retreating Nazi army.

After the tour I had a cup of awful tea at one of the cafes. Then I walked down across the Charles Bridge and up to the St Nicholas Church– very impressive but still too baroque for me. From here I climbed up the 220 steps on Zamecke schody to the Castle. I was a bit cranky about parts of my visit. The palace was closed at the moment! And I had to buy three different tickets to get into different sections. I did manage to get there just at the changing of the guards.

I saw the old Palace, The story of the Prague castle, Basilica of St. George, the treasury of St. Vitus cathedral,

St Vitus- amazing stainglass

Golden Lane and St Vitus’s Cathedral. The Powder Tower and the Palace were being renovated. I stopped for lunch before seeing more sights. Another cuppa before going down the wretched steps again, but I had to guess how to get back to the bridge area because they were the old steps and I went up the new steps. My radar must have been working today because I found it. Crossed the bridge, stopped at a souvenir shop and back here at 6:15.

Golden Lane

A hot bath using the bath salts. My legs were aching from all the stairs. I guestimated that I had climbed up or down 600 +! I washed my clothes, answered some emails then I had to use my time answering two extensive surveys about the hotel in Amsterdam. Interesting some very negative comments from previous customers: yes I agree that the rooms and en-suites were tiny, the shower leaked through the door onto the outside floor, you needed to be a contortionist to get the toilet paper, the bed was impossibly small as was the wardrobe, paper cups instead of real ones/ glasses was ordinary, the walls were paper thin and the carpet and paint looked tired. But after Paris, I wasn’t too upset. Some people must have had really bad rooms. I booked an online pickup from the train in Budapest. Wrote my diary, but no time left for photos, bed at 11.

Day 22 Cezky Krumlov- Lovely day, rain held off

Day 22 Cezky Krumlov-

8 kms of walking and 6 hours of sitting on a bus.

I woke before the alarm and tried to upload photos while I was at breakfast, but it was still so slow.  I was to meet the day tour to Cezky Krumlov near the Powder Tower. And of course I got hopelessly lost yet again, but arrived with time to spare. 26 in the tour group. A range of ages, sizes and abilities and, as became obvious, those who were interested and those who must have had a spare day and decided to catch the bus to “who cares”? We set off with our guide Jan. The countryside was just beautiful. Green crops and yellow rape flowers. The rape is used for machine oil. We passed by four nuclear cooling towers. Czech gets its power from coal and nuclear.

Lovely Czech countryside

Powder Tower

At the first toilet stop I met my guide from yesterday and my two Russian/ Israeli companions. Back on the bus and three hours later we arrived at Cezky Krumlov another UNESCO heritage site. The second largest castle after Prague castle. The driver drove up behind the castle to the garden area and we walked down.

The views over the river the village were like a fairy tale.

We walked through the formal gardens and down through each court-yard , through the gorgeous little village at the foot of the castle and up the hill to the church. The party by this time had already started to decrease. Some got off the bus and basically wanted a restaurant. Some just wanted to shop. I stayed with the tour guide and saw and heard it all. I even had lunch with him in a gorgeous little restaurant that was underground. I had the “naked chicken” and a salad-, which was actually covered in gravy. €13.70 And who should come into the restaurant but my Israeli friends. They didn’t stay long because they were looking for a specific soup, which was not available.

I talked with Jan over our meal. He told me about his experiences living in Czechoslovakia. He was a boy during the German occupation, then lived in post war Czech, then Communist Czech and now in post- Communist Czech.

After lunch we walked back through the village to wait for our turn to see inside the castle.  One thing that was NOT mentioned when I booked, was that you were not allowed to take photos. However at least 1/3 of our group did when the castle guide was not watching and I found a lot of photos online that others had taken. The castle guide was quite difficult to understand and she had a very strong accent. The tour whingers started straight away. The castle decorations were as you would expect- very ornate. All too soon we were out the door, off to the toilet, walked down the hill to the bus and off we went back to Prague. Back through the beautiful countryside. We had to slow for a while for an accident.

We arrived back in the town at 6:30 and I promptly got lost twice before finding my way home, even from the Town Hall. A quick shower, washed my clothes and hair. Then typed my diary, edited the photos until late/ early next morning.

Lower Cesky Krumlov

Day 21 Mainly Jewish walking Tour in Prague

Day 21- Glorious and almost hot. Only 4 kms of walking but 4 hours of standing on hard floors!

Woke at 6 and got a few more days of blogs up to date, then dressed and had breakfast. Back to my room to wait until 10:40. I uploaded right up to Blog 17 before grabbing my bag to head down.

The driver arrived 20 minutes early and drove me in the most circuitous direction to get to the meeting point. He dropped me off and I took a few photos of the buildings at that end of the town near the museum. Lots of Art Deco buildings in Prague.

I met the guide, Anna, for the “Jewish Walking Tour” and eventually the other couple in the tour arrived: Alex and Tania from Israel/ Russia, and we began to talk and walk. Our meeting place was actually the Hotel Europa where Sir Nicholas Winton stayed, while he was organising how to rescue 669 young Jewish children from Czechoslovakia to England.

Some Jews were able to emigrate as early as 1938. In 1939 Hitler invaded Czechoslovakia. Because  he considered Czechs to be a low order of people, they were treated with a total lack of humanity. Czechs were used as forced labour. They had a strong resistance army but this was met with massive retaliation. During WW2 320.000 civilian Czechs were killed and 2,500 military. 80,000 Jews were killed by Germans/collaborators, mostly in Auschwitz, which was 84% of the pre- war Jewish population. Even after Liberation the Germans continued to bomb and terrorize Czechoslovakia. At the end of the war Germans were forced out of the country by Czechs. Some were murdered in retaliation.   

A few of the 80,000 Czech and Moravian Jews
 murdered on the walls of the Pinkas Synagogue 

One of the most moving displays.
Art works by children who were
later killed.

Today there are 7 million visitors each year in Prague, who come from 73 countries.

We walked back down the hill through the Old Town to the old Jewish quarter (Between Stare Mesto and Josefov) near the river. We went into several sights including the Old Jewish Cemetery, Ceremonial Hall, Pinkas Synagogue and the spectacular Spanish Synagogue. One of the saddest parts was the exhibition of children’s art work done in the Terezin camp. All these children were killed and what trauma they had already witnessed in their lives. In the old cemetery the gravestones are centuries old. The oldest 1439.  Then we went through the Ceremonial hall which showed us about the burial practices of the Jews. Their faith demands that they are buried, and has many rituals, so being burnt in the crematoriums could be seen as really annihilating them. Thankfully the tour ended up on a much brighter note in the Spanish Synagogue. OMG there are NO words to describe the opulence of this place of worship. Truly amazing. It is now used for concerts, as are many of the churches in Prague.

All hand painted!

Spanish Synagogue

From here we said goodbye to our guide (3pm).  I needed food and by now it was hot. Those tiny alleys and squares heat up during the day. They must be unbearable in summer? On the way back to the Town Square I happened to find a shop that sold gf items. Not great quality- the usual tastes like it is already stale kind. But needs must.

I stopped at the Hussite church of St. Nicholas. Combining several main ideas from a few faiths. It had originally been a Catholic church. In the square I had a Caesar salad and a tea in one of the many cafes at 4: 15. Back to the hotel- finally picking the fastest way, where I had to iron some of my lighter tops. Completed the last upload of the blogs and started typing today’s news.

8pm and now time for photo editing and uploading. Really tired tonight. My cold is considerably better but still lingering. My voice comes and goes during the day. The worst part is the coughing fits that just keep going!

Day 20 Prague – Marathon day Glorious sunshine

5 kms walking

Woke just before the alarm.  The drunken yobs woke me at 2:30 but I went back to sleep. Very comfy sleep and mostly quiet except for that one interruption. I organised my bag/ clothes then went to breakfast. Great spread for most of the population, just not the gf’s. So back to my room to pick up some porridge and rice cakes. The jam is in jars here and the eggs are peeled, but there was baked beans and fruit. I managed to have enough but realised that I had very little voice.

After breakfast I set off to the clock tower and promptly got lost. Managed to get there easily yesterday, but when I hit the river today I knew I was in trouble. It was even more complicated because the marathon was being run and the streets down there were full of people and barriers. Finally many stops to look at the street names and ask I found the man with the blue and white umbrella.

He was most apologetic because the tour had been cancelled due to the marathon, which didn’t surprise me at all. So I re booked for Wednesday and walked down to the supermarket. Only issue was that it was on the other side of the race. So I had to walk along the tape until I saw that they were allowing people to cross, only during a gap in the runners. Unfortunately some idiots thought that they could just walk across when they felt like, narrowly missing runners. The police and officials shouted at them, which made no difference at all. Found the supermarket and found the GF section. Yippee. No bread, but there were rolls and I’m guessing that because today is Sunday that is a bonus. I bought tomatoes, goat’s cheese, the rolls, sliced meat, some fruit and banana chips- all the nuts were gone. (I’m guessing the runners had them?) I was also looking for a small sharp knife and through the power of mime was told I’d find them on the fourth floor. Paid for my items and up I went. Another mime session up there because I only wanted a cheap one. Everything in my back pack and I walked back across the marathon to the hotel. I put my things in the fridge , grabbed a glass of water, removed my vest- glorious day today- and set off for the Charles Bridge.

I’d decided if most people were watching or running in the marathon there would be less people on the bridge and I was right. However I had to cross the marathon again. Sauntered over the bridge, listening to the music, taking lovely photos and looking at the little stalls. Back across the bridge, through the marathon and back to the hotel for lunch. A roll and several cups of tea.

I settled in to edit the photos from Bruges > till now. The cleaning ladies were surprised to see me in here but I’m determined to catch up.

At 4:15 I began my own marathon of catching up on both blog and emails and finished at 10. still more on the blogs to go but all the writing edited and ready. Bed 10:30

Day 19 Amsterdam to Prague- Lovely weather T- shirt in Prague.

4.27 kms walking.

Woken by some yobo and his mates shouting in the street below at 5. Then an unloading truck! Finally time for the alarm, but by then I had booked a shuttle from the Prague airport, a final pack and downstairs for breakfast….which didn’t open till 7:30 on Sat/ Sun! Back to my room for a while then back again. Gulping it down this time. Up to pick up my bag, checked out and waited in the foyer for the shuttle bus for an 8:15 pickup. Hacking cough now and it has moved down to my lungs, so I’m glad I have the antibiotics.

The driver was early at 8:05- love it when they are early. At the airport by 9. Very busy airport. So again asking lots of questions and directions. Got my boarding pass, and it was listed as Sky Priority again which means the faster lanes. Security was fairly strict- scarf, vest, jacket, boots off, computer out and then I got the most personal pat down ever, including all parts of my bra- front and back and waistband of my pants - thankfully by a lovely but professional lady. My carry on got “done” again. Had to unzip it – they just wanted to look in my cord bag and instamatic camera? All done and walked up to the gate to sit for the next two hours. Got a cuppa and typed up my diary from yesterday. They were being very strict on carry-on luggage. Basically one bag unless you are Priority! I only had one anyway. I typed up all of yesterday’s diary with my computer in my carefully balanced airport style. Back pack on floor. Handbag on top, with the strap around my waist. Cover for the computer on top to form a steady base and good to go. Finally time to put the computer away and go to the toilet before boarding.

I got to go on board right after the kids and elderly! And 7D so right near to the front. We took off 5 minutes late and landed five minutes early for the 55 minute flight and in between time my ears gave me hell and my sinuses were unhappy too! When I was reading my book about Prague, the man next to me showed me places to go in Prague and told me to use the ATM or card not the money changers. The local currency is the koruna. The exchange rate is about 1€ = 22 Kcl. The money changers here are basically sharks and not to be trusted and he didn’t have much good to say about taxis either. He suggested I should catch the public Metro or walk.

Disembarked at Prague and happened to check my pocket for a tissue and what did I find? The hard-boiled egg I’d forgotten about from breakfast, but absolutely smashed to pieces. Luckily it was wrapped in a napkin. So that got put in the bin on the way through. It is a much smaller airport than many capital cities. I waited in the queue at the ATM and only wanted to get a small amount of money, because you have trouble changing it at the end.

I found the shuttle man waiting for me with a sign but there was some language confusion and I was waiting for him while he thought I was following him. The shuttle company rang me on my phone to solve the issue and soon I was in the shuttle.

Prague is not at all what I expected. The countryside comes right up to the city. Huge green and yellow fields and very hilly. In the city section, we drove through some rather sad, high rise apartments and neglected houses and nature strips, until the streets got narrower and narrower and in some places steeper and steeper. Basically a bit scruffy. Cobbles replaced bitumen and the lovely old buildings emerged once we crossed the river. The Vltava River is very wide and has a series of impressive bridges crossing it. The streets were only just wide enough at times for a car, so pedestrians had to move out of the way. Eventually I was dropped off near my hotel door €15 which included a tip. Much cheaper than a taxi. I had to drag my case along the last 50 metres over cobblestones.

The Savic Hotel used to be a 13C monastery, now a 28 room gorgeous boutique hotel. The receptionist, Alice, was lovely.

My room was big, with two full size beds. Lovely furniture and a much larger bathroom with all the bits that most hotels supply. It even had both a jug and a coffee machine and a fridge! And a restaurant, which serves all day. I had a shower, unpacked and washed my clothes. Eventually I got a grilled chicken salad, despite having issues with asking for gf. It was delicious, especially at 3:45 and I had a cup of tea, which came in a bucket size cup. It cost 278K = about €12.

While I was seated outside I was people watching. There seemed to be a LOT of party goers both men and women. Hundreds of tourists packing every restaurant or narrow alley way eating the local ice-cream, or drinking beer. Many groups following tour guides. Then there were the tourists who had come to see the city by themselves walking around, map in hand looking up and down (cobblestones) but with no bicyclists ready to run them down. What a blessing.

After “lunch” I went for a stroll. It is a difficult place to get your bearings /directions because the streets are so narrow, the houses so tall and the streets don’t follow a grid or pattern, but I didn’t get lost, so that was a bonus.

I walked to the Bethlehem Chapel and learned all about Jan Hus, who was burned at the stake for being a heretic. His crime was basically pointing out the corruption of the Catholic Church at that time and making some suggestions about ways to improve it, to be more equitable for the poorer majority. He lived in the house attached to the chapel and preached to 3000 people at a time in the chapel. I think the entrance fee was 6k.

From here I walked around taking random photos of buildings until I reached the town square. This is where I am supposed to be having a walking tour tomorrow. Except it is also the venue for a marathon race, which was being set up. Hopefully I find the tour leader tomorrow? The other bothersome fact is that famous Astrological clock is being renovated.  I returned to the hotel about 6. My nose was not happy flying again but seems to be better inside. Very civilised in this room, a tea pot for the tea and real cups!

Iran out of time to download photos but should get extra tomorrow afternoon and this chair is quite uncomfortable.

Day 18 Day trip to Bruges- perfect weather

8.1 kms walking

Woken again by bus transfer downstairs. If I ever stay here again make sure not above the front door. Breakfast at 7:30 and off on tram 2 to Central and the short walk down to the office of the travel company at 8:45 for the trip to Bruges. Two buses for all the people. I was on a double-decker bus on the top and on a window seat. 84 passengers. Unfortunately for me a group of 12 Indian/ Sri Lankan men were sitting directly behind me who were rude and inconsiderate.

Our tour guide was Marianne and our driver was Harry. Both were fabulous. Marianne had to give the commentary in two languages- English and Spanish and she swapped so quickly! The commentary was great. Lots of information, not an overload, but not much rest time between for Marianne. The country side was just beautiful, so rural and incredibly flat. Not a slight hill the whole way. Lots and lots of canals and a few windmills. Many of these were destroyed when machine pumps took over, but thankfully some were saved- for tourists and for their history.

8 million visit Bruges each year. It has UNESCO world heritage listing because of the medieval town and was saved twice from destruction in WW2. It took three hours to arrive When we arrived outside Bruges we all queued up for the toilet- 50 p. Then it was follow the leader with our head sets in and onto the various major sights. Marianne had told us which stops we would be doing and I had marked them on the map they provided. The whinging group of men complained the whole time, just wanting to stop at a restaurant.

Finally at 2:15 it was free time for the next 3 ½ hours and time to get some food and more water. I retraced the places she had shown us on the way to the old square and took a lot of photos because it was such a beautiful old town. I ate lunch sometime after 3 pm – fries and water. Very cheap from a street vendor. Delicious, but again a large serve even when I asked for a small. It was a perfect day for walking and there was so much to see. The churches were amazing- baroque style. Huge and so many in such a small town. I went through three.

In one was a cloth with the” genuine blood of Christ”. In another was the only sculpture by Michelangelo outside Italy. A beautiful Madonna and child.  The churches had been so carefully restored. The stain glass windows were incredible too.

I was finished under the allocated time and waited back at the meeting point along with a few others. Most were laden with chocolates and other goodies. We were all back on the bus at 6 for the trip back again, returning the same way home because of a traffic accident. We arrived back at Central as the sun was setting – 9:20. (The unruly continued to be problematic on the return trip.)

Fortunately the celebrations were finished by now and all the trams were running. May 4 is the Dutch Remembrance Day for all those who died in WW2. Celebrations are held on May 5, for Liberation Day. On the way to Bruges we passed by a huge Canadian soldier’s cemetery. Brussels had very little damage done in WW2 because the king was complicit with Hitler. He was removed from power as soon as the war was over. However in WW1 there was huge destruction and loss of life.

I caught the 5 tram and was back at the hotel at 10:15. It was a long day. I downloaded photos because I was concerned about my cameras. Answered a few quick emails, packed my bag, then bed after 12! 

Day 17 Amsterdam museums: Glorious sunshine and mild

5.5 kms walking

Reasonable night’s sleep, except for the coughing. I think the antibiotics have kicked in this afternoon, so my sinuses are less painful. My throat is still sore and lumpy. Still quite difficult to swallow but now it just feels like pointy rocks going down, not razor blades. I just ate an orange and you would have thought it was acid!

Today had some highs and lows.

After breakfast, not much again because of my throat.

After breakfast a very quick walk up to the Van Gogh Museum for my 9 am ticket. Along the way I tried to take photo of the selfie point outside the Rijksmuseum. My camera would not focus and was giving me an error message about the lens. It was a short wait in line and then inside along with many others. No photos allowed in here. I tried to solve my camera issue, but nothing would work. The lens was not connecting properly. Slightly disappointed given that Vincent was prolific. I know they rotate and lend some out, but many of my most favourites were not there. However I did add a new favourite to my list- “the shoes” 1886 and a wonderful self-portrait, that showed so much of his torment. It was good to be able to see some of his simple drawings/ musings too. He was a skilled technician and made numerous studies of parts of the body.  There was an exhibition of his letters- not much good if you can’t read Dutch?  All done and out of there in one hour.

Then I had a problem. Go onto the Rijksmuseum “next door “, or walk back to the hotel and pick up my other camera, which I did. NOBODY was in the queue at the Rijks on the way past but the crowds were there when I returned.

Again check in my coat and backpack, but you can go crazy in there taking as many photos as you like. I love the paintings of everyday life in the Middle Ages - especially the “Hell and Damnation” ones. Definitely one way to get the locals to church. They also have some lovely wooden carvings from the era too. Of course my favourite and obviously everyone else’s were the Vermeer’s and Rembrandt’s. The crowds in those two rooms rivalled the Boxing Day sales. I felt really sorry for all the kids, who were absolutely bored out of their brains and just wanted to go.  Two hours at the Rijksmuseum and I was ready to go. I would have gone back for another refresher, but desperately needed a drink for my throat and there was a huge queue for the café.

From here I walked across the canal and saw yet another serious pedestrian/ cyclist prang. Dutch bike riders are lethal. There must be laws about riding a bike? I know all kids have to pass both a written and practical test in bike riding. No helmets and many don’t obey the lights, or indicate, or ring any warning and are clever enough to talk and text while riding. They also ride on any side of the road or bike lane and even the footpath. Today I saw a tiny car using the bike lane. Wheelchairs and scooters use the bike lanes too. So pedestrians are constantly turning their heads to avoid being hit.

After crossing the canal, I caught the number 7 tram to get closer to the Jewish Museum. A fifteen minute walk from the tram stop to the Jewish Museum, but on the way I stopped for lunch. I needed a hot drink for my throat. Found a really cute little café “Cantrell” for a cuppa. Obviously used by locals because it was really busy. The meals looked great and were very reasonably priced. €4.50 for a cuppa and small chips. Lucky I didn’t say a big serve, because it was enormous and my throat wasn’t in the mood for crunchy chips. No gf in this area. I was hoping for soup.

First stop on my Jewish quest was the Portuguese Synagogue. (€13, which is a pass for 5 sights in the town.)  This synagogue was built in 1675. At one time it was the largest one in Europe, modelled on the Jewish Temple. It is a HUGE building, but quite austere inside. Completely looted by the Germans during the war. They had a good system using the pod casts for information and it was interesting learning about their religious practices.

Over the road was the Jewish Historical Museum. Another free audio commentary. The photo exhibition was good, especially the section about Holland after the war/ Hunger Winter. Small, but incredibly graphic. I stopped for another cuppa. It might have the only Kosher café in the city, but it only had one thing that was gf- coconut balls. I had to buy two? €6.45 for a drink and snack. There was so much to do and listen to in the centre. It would be easy to spend two hours in here looking at every item. I liked using the audio pods.

I left at about 4 in glorious sunshine and headed for the tram stop. Along the way, there was a memorial to the 200 Jews who lived along one of the canals and were shot during WW2. I arrived back here from tram 10, just before 4:30. I tried for a while to solve the camera issue! Not going to be solved. Had my shower, downloaded and edited the photos, then typed my diary, eating another delicious egg sandwich for dinner.

Now it’s time to see if I can organise a shuttle bus to the airport for Saturday morning. Tomorrow is the bus trip to Bruges and then it’s goodbye Amsterdam.

Day 16 Amsterdam –Sunny, but very cold wind

8.6 kms of walking

A “marginally“better night’s sleep. I was being kind to myself so no alarm clocks But I was surprised when I woke at 8:15. My throat was sore, red and yucky. Obviously I was going to need a chemist today. I had a much better breakfast with my own gf porridge (add boiling water and stir and it tastes “almost” like it has been microwaved) plus my own rice cakes.

Caught the tram, but this time stopped at a chemist two stops away and explained my throat. Got more tablets to suck and some nasal spray. Back on the tram to the station and then a walk to Museum Ons Lieve Heer op Solder. I loved it. Not just because it was one of the hidden house Catholic Churches, but the great commentary pod casts available and the way they have painstakingly reproduced the exact home of the 17th century. Although you were not allowed to be a practising Catholic or anything other than the official church, the Dutch didn’t openly persecute those of different faiths, as long as it was private. Hence churches set up in the third/fourth/ fifth floors. Fabulous just being able to walk through/ up and down it. Definitely NOT for those with bad knees or hips because of all the very steep steps.

My next visit was to be the Oude Kirke. Walked down there - closed until May 23 for renovations!

Instead I meandered through the squares and over bridges and canals making my way towards my afternoon tour at 2pm at the Jewish Museum. However on my way I spotted a café which had a sign “gluten free available”. I ordered the pasta pollo (Pasta with chicken and mushrooms) It might have taken a while to cook (obviously fresh) but was delicious and I almost demolished the entire large bowl. €14 pasta and tea.

Next stop the Jewish museum to find the guide. I’d booked “the Jewish Quarter Anne Frank walking tour” online based on the mention of the Jewish Museum, the Spanish Synagogue, Anne Frank’s House.  Yes they were all mentioned in the tour and yes we walked past each one, but we didn’t enter any of them!  The actual tour description was more accurate: “walk through Amsterdam with a professional guide that shows Amsterdam during WW2 through the eyes of Anne Frank” 

I was not the only one to have been confused and while the guide was really good and very knowledgeable, I consequently missed seeing places that were on my “must see” list.

From the end of the tour at Anne Frank’s house, I walked back to Dam Square to catch the tram back to the hotel. By now my throat had reached a new plateau in pain. It hurt to breathe through my nose, swallowing felt like razor blades going down and hurt my ears to do so. I was definitely reaching for the anti- biotics I had bought.

However a slight issue when I entered my room. The rubbish bag was on my desk and nothing else had been done, which was very unusual. As I was going down in the lift I met a member of staff. He immediately came up to my room to check and offered me another room, or free breakfast or a wine. I only wanted fresh towels! But I got a fee drink of ginger ale.

Day 15 Amsterdam to Keukenhof Gardens. Pelting down in the morning to sunny in the afternoon.

Only 5.5 kms walking today.

I had an awful night’s “sleep”. My cold/ virus sent me a temperature, headache, runny nose and a vicious sore throat. By the time I woke up at 6:30 I just wanted to turn over and go back to sleep, but not today. It was the garden day. I ate very little at breakfast and was soon suited up for the pouring rain.

Once again up to the tram stop and into Central Station, then I walked down to the meeting point for this tour. Not the best organised system, but eventually all the bus tours left and we were on our way to a bulb farm and one of the most important parts of this stop- the Keukenhof Gardens.

The bus was full but I was lucky enough to get a window seat. Most on the bus spoke English, but some needed a Spanish translation for the commentary, so the guide said it in English first, then Spanish. We drove out of Amsterdam along some very flat areas. The Netherlands has 26% below sea level and Amsterdam has some parts that are 4 metres below. That’s why they have locks, dikes and canals that are paid for by a special tax.

Our first stop was a bulb growing farm. The farmer was really interesting. They actually strip the flower off the plant to make the bulb grow bigger. The bulbs are grown in a very sandy soil on a regular crop rotation are never watered because the water table is just below the surface. He told us that we must dig up and move our bulbs every year and cautioned us about buying from the bulb sellers in the town flower district. Apparently the bulbs are old ones and will not flower? We had a cup of tea in the shed €1.50 and some bought bulbs and other tulip related items. We also watched a short video about the 10 billion- yes that was billion- bulbs grown every year for sale. He had some amazing types of daffodils, hyacinths and tulip blooms in the shed. 

From here we drove straight to Keukenhof to park along with the hundreds of other buses and cars. We were given specific instructions that we must be on the bus at 3:45. It was a very efficient and quick way to enter. I grabbed a map and set off to revel in the fabulous garden. Despite the recent rain and today’s wind the flowers were holding up reasonably well. They plant the bulbs here in three levels so that there will always be blooms for the short 8 week season. In the 8 weeks they get 1 million visitors. The garden designs were just beautiful. I wasn’t a fan of the special display areas- they seemed to be more gimmicky. The view from the windmill was a dud- most of the viewing area had already been ploughed up.  There was lots to see. And hundreds of people all doing the same, but with 32 hectares (79 acres) and 7 million tulips, hyacinths and daffodils there was plenty for everyone. Unfortunately Keukenhof does NOT cater for gf’s. I had some snacks with me and had several lots of tea. €2.50 each.

Soon time to get back on the bus and head back to town. By now the sun was shining and the sea of umbrellas from this morning had disappeared, but the crowds hadn’t. I stopped at McD for a chicken Caesar salad and small fries. The fries I ate and the salad I bought back for dinner. I caught the tram back to the hotel area, had a shower and washed my hair and clothes, took a Zytec and Panadol then started typing. 8:10 and still sunshine. Finished the delicious salad and editing. 9:00 and the sun is almost setting!