Day 21- Glorious and almost hot. Only 4 kms of walking but 4
hours of standing on hard floors!
Woke at 6 and got a few more days of blogs up to date, then
dressed and had breakfast. Back to my room to wait until 10:40. I uploaded
right up to Blog 17 before grabbing my bag to head down.
The driver arrived 20 minutes early and drove me in the most circuitous direction to get to
the meeting point. He dropped me off and I took a few photos of the buildings
at that end of the town near the museum. Lots of Art Deco buildings in Prague.
I met the guide, Anna, for the “Jewish Walking Tour” and
eventually the other couple in the tour arrived: Alex and Tania from Israel/
Russia, and we began to talk and walk. Our meeting place was actually the Hotel
Europa where Sir Nicholas Winton stayed, while he was organising how to rescue
669 young Jewish children from Czechoslovakia to England.
Some Jews were able to emigrate as early as 1938. In 1939
Hitler invaded Czechoslovakia. Because
he considered Czechs to be a low order of people, they were treated with
a total lack of humanity. Czechs were used as forced labour. They had a strong
resistance army but this was met with massive retaliation. During WW2 320.000
civilian Czechs were killed and 2,500 military. 80,000 Jews were killed by
Germans/collaborators, mostly in Auschwitz, which was 84% of the pre- war
Jewish population. Even after Liberation the Germans continued to bomb and
terrorize Czechoslovakia. At the end of the war Germans were forced out of the
country by Czechs. Some were murdered in retaliation.
A few of the 80,000 Czech and Moravian Jews murdered on the walls of the Pinkas Synagogue |
One of the most moving displays. Art works by children who were later killed. |
Today there are 7 million visitors each year in Prague, who
come from 73 countries.
We walked back down the hill through the Old Town to the old
Jewish quarter (Between Stare Mesto and Josefov) near the river. We went into
several sights including the Old Jewish Cemetery, Ceremonial Hall, Pinkas
Synagogue and the spectacular Spanish Synagogue. One of the saddest parts was
the exhibition of children’s art work done in the Terezin camp. All these
children were killed and what trauma they had already witnessed in their lives.
In the old cemetery the gravestones are centuries old. The oldest 1439. Then we went through the Ceremonial hall which
showed us about the burial practices of the Jews. Their faith demands that they
are buried, and has many rituals, so being burnt in the crematoriums could be
seen as really annihilating them. Thankfully the tour ended up on a much
brighter note in the Spanish Synagogue. OMG there are NO words to describe the
opulence of this place of worship. Truly amazing. It is now used for concerts,
as are many of the churches in Prague.
All hand painted! |
Spanish Synagogue |
From here we said goodbye to our guide (3pm). I needed food and by now it was hot. Those
tiny alleys and squares heat up during the day. They must be unbearable in
summer? On the way back to the Town Square I happened to find a shop that sold
gf items. Not great quality- the usual tastes like it is already stale kind.
But needs must.
I stopped at the Hussite church of St. Nicholas. Combining
several main ideas from a few faiths. It had originally been a Catholic church.
In the square I had a Caesar salad and a tea in one of the many cafes at 4: 15.
Back to the hotel- finally picking the fastest way, where I had to iron some of
my lighter tops. Completed the last upload of the blogs and started typing
today’s news.
8pm and now time for photo editing and uploading. Really
tired tonight. My cold is considerably better but still lingering. My voice
comes and goes during the day. The worst part is the coughing fits that just
keep going!
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