Sunday, 17 June 2018

Day 24 The Loreta and Strahov Monastery over near Prague castle



7 kms and a lovely day
Woke at 3 am, so I read my guide book and went back to sleep, before waking again at 7. I set off at 9 over the bridge and up the hill. Slightly lost at one point half way up the hill near the embassies, but eventually made it to the top, walking past the Castle and up to “The Loreta”.

The Loreta is a collection of old convent buildings. Just as I arrived the beautiful bells starting chiming. I paid 210 kn, which included a camera licence! That was almost the same price as a ticket but I could happily snap away to my heart’s content. It used to provide lodging for the pilgrims, since 1626, as evidenced by the number of shells incorporated into designs. One reason for the pilgrims was “the Holy Hut”- more like a miniature mansion. Legend says that Mary’s house was miraculously transported from Nazareth to Loreto in Italy in 1278 to save it from the infidels. This house and others claim to have small segments of the original house. I tend to be a real sceptic when it comes to the claims about the authenticity of relics, but there are many faithful who believe. This little chapel replicates Mary’s house in Italy. The sculptural work on the outside was wonderful. 
The Church of the Nativity was another example of 1722 extreme baroque style with the usual frescoes and lots of gold and marble. However to one side was a beautifully simple modern prayer chapel, which gave me more of a sense of God. There were many little chapels to specific saints but possibly the most bizarre was St. Starosta, who prayed to grow a beard to escape from being married. So her father crucified her!

Upstairs was “The Loreta Treasury” – a collection of vestments and religious items. Some stunning gold and silver work, several amazing monstrances including one made in 1699 and which had 6222 diamonds! Very shiny. Some fabulous examples of fine filigree work.

There was an interesting information section about different orders of priests and monks and their work in communities over time. Helping people during times of Plague and dying in the process. But possibly most significant at this remembrance time for the Czechs those priests in WW2. Some “fought”, some hid Jews/ other wanted people, and some who were just caught up in the terror of the process A number lost their lives either in WW2, or later during the Communist rule. One of the saddest was a German priest who ministered in the country during the war and was rounded up with other Germans and forced on a death march by the locals in retaliation for the German atrocities.
After all that information I left and headed for the cafĂ© over the road for a well -earned cup of delicious tea. From here I headed down the hill and up the hill (Found later that there was a road going around the back of the hill) to the Strahov Capuchin Monastery. Made it in time to hear the bells tolling for 12. Unfortunately that was both good and bad. Fabulous to hear the bells tolling for ten minutes. Bad because that meant it was now closed for a lunch break! So close and yet not. So I took photos from the outside and of the parkland below and set off down the hill, over the bridge and back to the hotel where I dropped off my backpack. 
Then I went out to find a restaurant for lunch. It was only 2 pm, but the one I wanted to try that advertised GF, was not at all accommodating and told me I needed a booking for lunch. There were six people in the place? So I went back to my hotel where I ordered and ate the MOST delicious steak and potatoes. The steak was so tender. Cooked perfectly to medium rare, but they served it with twelve tiny potatoes cut into halves= 24 pieces of potato! I couldn’t manage the last 6 pieces so they were my dinner. Well worth every cent of 569kn ($34) Staggered up the stairs, downloaded photos and wrote in my diary. (6:30: time for a dinner break) Bed at 11 after packing, while uploading. Internet speed exceptionally slow tonight.

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