7 kms and a lovely day
Woke at 3 am, so I read my guide book and went back to sleep, before waking again at 7. I set off at 9 over the bridge and up the hill. Slightly
lost at one point half way up the hill near the embassies, but eventually made it to the top, walking past the Castle and up to “The Loreta”.
The Loreta is a collection of old convent buildings. Just as I arrived the beautiful bells starting chiming. I paid 210 kn, which
included a camera licence! That was almost the same price as a ticket but I
could happily snap away to my heart’s content. It used to provide lodging for the pilgrims, since
1626, as evidenced by the number of shells incorporated into designs. One reason for the pilgrims was “the Holy Hut”- more like
a miniature mansion. Legend says that Mary’s house was miraculously
transported from Nazareth to Loreto in Italy in 1278 to save it from the
infidels. This house and others claim to have small segments of the original
house. I tend to be a real sceptic when it comes to the claims about the
authenticity of relics, but there are many faithful who believe. This little
chapel replicates Mary’s house in Italy. The sculptural work on the outside was wonderful.
The Church of the Nativity was another example of 1722
extreme baroque style with the usual frescoes and lots of gold and marble.
However to one side was a beautifully simple modern prayer chapel, which gave
me more of a sense of God. There were many
little chapels to specific saints but possibly the most bizarre was St.
Starosta, who prayed to grow a beard to escape from being married. So her
father crucified her!
Upstairs was “The Loreta Treasury” – a collection of
vestments and religious items. Some stunning gold and silver work, several amazing
monstrances including one made in 1699 and which had 6222 diamonds! Very shiny. Some fabulous examples of fine filigree work.
There was an interesting information section about different
orders of priests and monks and their work in communities over time. Helping
people during times of Plague and dying in the process. But possibly most significant at this
remembrance time for the Czechs those priests in WW2. Some “fought”, some hid
Jews/ other wanted people, and some who were just caught up in the terror of the
process A number lost their lives either in WW2, or later during the Communist
rule. One of the saddest was a German priest who ministered in the country
during the war and was rounded up with other Germans and forced on a death
march by the locals in retaliation for the German atrocities.
After all that information I left and headed for the café
over the road for a well -earned cup of delicious tea. From here I headed down
the hill and up the hill (Found later that there was a road going around the
back of the hill) to the Strahov Capuchin Monastery. Made it in time to hear
the bells tolling for 12. Unfortunately that was both good and bad. Fabulous to
hear the bells tolling for ten minutes. Bad because that meant it was now
closed for a lunch break! So close and yet not. So I took photos from the
outside and of the parkland below and set off down the hill, over the bridge
and back to the hotel where I dropped off my backpack.
Then I went out to find
a restaurant for lunch. It was only 2 pm, but the one I wanted to try that advertised GF,
was not at all accommodating and told me I needed a booking for lunch. There
were six people in the place? So I went back to my hotel where I ordered
and ate the MOST delicious steak and potatoes. The steak was so tender. Cooked
perfectly to medium rare, but they served it with twelve tiny potatoes cut into
halves= 24 pieces of potato! I couldn’t manage the last 6 pieces so they were
my dinner. Well worth every cent of 569kn ($34) Staggered up the stairs,
downloaded photos and wrote in my diary. (6:30: time for a dinner break) Bed at
11 after packing, while uploading. Internet speed exceptionally slow tonight.
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