Monday, 7 May 2018

Day 17 Amsterdam museums: Glorious sunshine and mild



5.5 kms walking
Reasonable night’s sleep, except for the coughing. I think the antibiotics have kicked in this afternoon, so my sinuses are less painful. My throat is still sore and lumpy. Still quite difficult to swallow but now it just feels like pointy rocks going down, not razor blades. I just ate an orange and you would have thought it was acid!
Today had some highs and lows.
After breakfast, not much again because of my throat.

After breakfast a very quick walk up to the Van Gogh Museum for my 9 am ticket. Along the way I tried to take photo of the selfie point outside the Rijksmuseum. My camera would not focus and was giving me an error message about the lens. It was a short wait in line and then inside along with many others. No photos allowed in here. I tried to solve my camera issue, but nothing would work. The lens was not connecting properly. Slightly disappointed given that Vincent was prolific. I know they rotate and lend some out, but many of my most favourites were not there. However I did add a new favourite to my list- “the shoes” 1886 and a wonderful self-portrait, that showed so much of his torment. It was good to be able to see some of his simple drawings/ musings too. He was a skilled technician and made numerous studies of parts of the body.  There was an exhibition of his letters- not much good if you can’t read Dutch?  All done and out of there in one hour.
Then I had a problem. Go onto the Rijksmuseum “next door “, or walk back to the hotel and pick up my other camera, which I did. NOBODY was in the queue at the Rijks on the way past but the crowds were there when I returned.

Again check in my coat and backpack, but you can go crazy in there taking as many photos as you like. I love the paintings of everyday life in the Middle Ages - especially the “Hell and Damnation” ones. Definitely one way to get the locals to church. They also have some lovely wooden carvings from the era too. Of course my favourite and obviously everyone else’s were the Vermeer’s and Rembrandt’s. The crowds in those two rooms rivalled the Boxing Day sales. I felt really sorry for all the kids, who were absolutely bored out of their brains and just wanted to go.  Two hours at the Rijksmuseum and I was ready to go. I would have gone back for another refresher, but desperately needed a drink for my throat and there was a huge queue for the café.

From here I walked across the canal and saw yet another serious pedestrian/ cyclist prang. Dutch bike riders are lethal. There must be laws about riding a bike? I know all kids have to pass both a written and practical test in bike riding. No helmets and many don’t obey the lights, or indicate, or ring any warning and are clever enough to talk and text while riding. They also ride on any side of the road or bike lane and even the footpath. Today I saw a tiny car using the bike lane. Wheelchairs and scooters use the bike lanes too. So pedestrians are constantly turning their heads to avoid being hit.
After crossing the canal, I caught the number 7 tram to get closer to the Jewish Museum. A fifteen minute walk from the tram stop to the Jewish Museum, but on the way I stopped for lunch. I needed a hot drink for my throat. Found a really cute little café “Cantrell” for a cuppa. Obviously used by locals because it was really busy. The meals looked great and were very reasonably priced. €4.50 for a cuppa and small chips. Lucky I didn’t say a big serve, because it was enormous and my throat wasn’t in the mood for crunchy chips. No gf in this area. I was hoping for soup.

First stop on my Jewish quest was the Portuguese Synagogue. (€13, which is a pass for 5 sights in the town.)  This synagogue was built in 1675. At one time it was the largest one in Europe, modelled on the Jewish Temple. It is a HUGE building, but quite austere inside. Completely looted by the Germans during the war. They had a good system using the pod casts for information and it was interesting learning about their religious practices.
Over the road was the Jewish Historical Museum. Another free audio commentary. The photo exhibition was good, especially the section about Holland after the war/ Hunger Winter. Small, but incredibly graphic. I stopped for another cuppa. It might have the only Kosher café in the city, but it only had one thing that was gf- coconut balls. I had to buy two? €6.45 for a drink and snack. There was so much to do and listen to in the centre. It would be easy to spend two hours in here looking at every item. I liked using the audio pods.
I left at about 4 in glorious sunshine and headed for the tram stop. Along the way, there was a memorial to the 200 Jews who lived along one of the canals and were shot during WW2. I arrived back here from tram 10, just before 4:30. I tried for a while to solve the camera issue! Not going to be solved. Had my shower, downloaded and edited the photos, then typed my diary, eating another delicious egg sandwich for dinner.

Now it’s time to see if I can organise a shuttle bus to the airport for Saturday morning. Tomorrow is the bus trip to Bruges and then it’s goodbye Amsterdam.

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