Sunday, 17 June 2018

Day 25 Prague to Budapest by train. A day of some stress and not much walking


The day started far too early with revelers coming home at 4:06 and shouting all the way. I hadn’t gotten into a deep sleep from them going out last night at 2 am! So I pretended to go back to sleep, but was wide awake. At 5 I just got up and began to upload photos and that took the next 2 ½ hours. Packed my bags and was at breakfast when it opened at 7:30. As usual my tummy was churning before travelling, so not much breakfast and an extra tablet. I was waiting for the taxi at 7:50. I had to pay 90 kn for the city tax to the hotel. The hotel receptionist gave me a small gift too. The Savic was a lovely place to stay and I’d highly recommend it.
A nice young taxi man arrived and took my bag. He didn’t say anything at all and I prepared for the usual circuitous trip. I did have a moment’s query as he crossed the river? But as we kept on driving and seemed to be getting no closer to the station, I said” Are we going to the station?” He replied, “The train?” and checked his phone. It said I was going to the airport! So he did a u-turn. Despite  heavy traffic going towards the city we arrived at the station with not much time to spare. The taxi cost from the hotel is set at €14 but I gave him €20 because of all the hassles he had. I knew I had to get my Euro Rail pass stamped before the journey, but there was nothing in English to show a ticket place/ somewhere to get this pass stamped. In fact there wasn’t much of anything. I asked a random man who was sitting close to the entrance. Luckily he spoke wonderful English and was able to help. In fact he was catching the same train. Bonus. But by now I certainly did not have time to go investigating a ticket office. (In Budapest it was clearly marked in English specially for Euro Rail passes)
Any wonder there was nothing to see on the ground level- the action was all on the floors below. Down the escalators to Aladdin’s cave. Shops and platforms all around. He was able to tell me which platform the train was going to be on (4) and did offer to put my bag up for me- but I managed by myself. The train arrived within five minutes and I had to find my carriage and then lug my bag up four steps- not easy with a narrow door. Found my spot and “oh no”. An old lady was sitting in my seat by the window. I showed her my ticket and she gave me the “I don’t know what you are talking about message”. So I checked the seat numbers again (there are only 8 seats in this carriage!!!!! Four were empty and she had mine. So we went through the pantomime again with the same result and I thought – too bad dearie my seat. So I went out and got a conductor. He checked her ticket and told her to move. If looks could kill, I’d be fried. But she did and sat opposite and glared at me the whole time.

A very nice young man sat next to me and as we travelled along we had a bit of a chat. I did my usual sell of Australia. I settled down to upload yesterday’s photos using the train’s WiFi. I think it was actually faster than the hotel’s and soon I’d caught up with the photos. .
The journey went through very similar countryside to our trip to Cezky Krumlov, with both rural and built up towns. Most of the landscape is rural with endless fields of newly sewn grain, not as much rape as the bus trip. Only maybe five stops on the journey to Wein/ Vienna? The train travelled along at about 140 km/h sometimes as high as 160km/h. The countryside varied from flat to hilly. Sometimes larger farms and sometimes small holdings in the backyards. A few small rivers and it looks like it rained recently with water still in some of the paddocks.
I drank two cups of tea on the train- € 3.40 and in first class you get a free bottle of water and a discount on your drinks. As you go across the border the next country has to check your tickets. Because I had filled out my Euro Rail Pass but didn’t have it stamped both conductors were happy – BUT I had to make sure it was stamped at Vienna.
We arrived at Wien/ Vienna on time, I had to get off and the nice young man took my bag off for me  Thought of Heather and her German as I tried to find the ticket office. Not on the platform but once again a floor below and even more impressive selection of shops down there, But it took a while to find the ticket place- then I had to take a ticket and wait for 10 minutes, to be served. Crowds of people to be served and only four desks open and five people doing something else? But a lovely young concierge was able to help a bit. Eventually I was served by two people. One must have been in training. So the whole process had to be explained to the trainee. My ticket was eventually stamped. After another quick stop to find my platform, I was up that escalator and waiting on platform 9. In less than 10 minutes the train pulled in and then I had the long walk right to the second last carriage. Despite being in “First” it was nothing compared to the first train, including the toilets. Really disconcerting to have all the seats facing one way and the train travelling “backwards”. Very difficult to see anything and the stewards never bothered to come around and take an order, unlike the first one where you could grab his attention. I ended up going to the buffet carriage and getting a cuppa and a salad. (Interesting salad- basically carrot and possibly turnips/ swedes julienned together with some slivers of radishes. 1 salad and 1 cup of tea = €9.
The country along this part of the trip started in Austria and transformed in Hungary and there were significant differences between the two. Hungary had more obvious poverty and “Communist looking “  buildings. More rundown buildings too and general rubbish. And the weather changed into storm clouds and a brief spot of rain. There were more stops at little run down stations than on the first leg of the journey. Once again the tickets were checked twice- in each country.

What was similar on the whole journey through three countries were the masses of red poppies growing in the fields, woods and edges of the tracks. I’d never seen them like that before and of course especially on the anniversary of the fighting on the Western front very significant for Australians. When I mentioned it to my first travelling companion it had no connection at all.
We arrived in Budapest 5 minutes late. I had pre-booked a taxi, so I just had to wait to find the man with the sign. Hundreds got off the train/ headed onto the train. I went up and down the platform four times and was starting to really panic and get angry at the same time. Not my idea of fun to manage a case and backpack on a bus/ domestic train to an unknown destination. Eventually 20 minutes later my phone rang and it was the driver, who said he’d been looking for me. He was a lovely guy but there was NO way that he had been where he said he was. I’d gone past five times and not seen him, while I had seen others. I think he had been caught in the traffic, which was awful. He’d been to Australia and loved it so we had quite a chat in the heavy traffic to the hotel.
Budapest is nowhere as pretty as Prague. Reason? Hitler loved the city of Prague and spared it. He hated Budapest and bombed it, then the communists bombed the rest in 1947. 

It was quite complicated to get to the hotel reception, so I was glad the driver was taking me up from the garage where he had to park the van but couldn't locate the elevator? (I found out it was his first day as a driver) Checked in- after giving them my maiden name and my mum’s maiden name. I thought at the time- that’s my identity gone to the highest buyer? The receptionist had to show me up to my room- no way on earth you could begin to get there by following directions. So she carried my bag up the two flights of steps- thank you God.

Fabulous room. Three times the size of Amsterdam. The bathroom was bigger than my bedroom in Amsterdam. It’s a self- contained apartment. Lots of positives but also a few negatives- like dirty hand marks on the walls, no desk- I’m sitting on the bed to type-, cupboards designed by a giant with a sense of humour- I couldn’t even reach the clothes hangers, minimal power outlets- and quite dark at night. But fridge, sink, jug, toaster, tea/ instant coffee sachets and the usual crockery/ cutlery/ pots/ pan for two and a hot plate, but no microwave? And other than marks on the walls, well presented.
Dumped my things then went to the nearby supermarket and imagine my JOY!!!!!! Not only GF but LF products too. So if Hungary can do it, every place should. Bought some supplies to make some meals. 4291 huf = $21.45. Next time I’m taking my Hungarian dictionary. No idea what some of the products were. Some with pictures were obvious, but others - even the pictures didn’t help. A short walk back to the apartment, put away the shopping and had a shower. My ankles were quite swollen, even with travelling socks. I was surprised because it had been train travel and I'd never had that problem on the plane?
I made a fresh salad with cooked potato and a fried piece of stale GF bread, washed down by a cup of tea. Then sat on the bed to type up my diary. Already 9:45.



Day 24 The Loreta and Strahov Monastery over near Prague castle



7 kms and a lovely day
Woke at 3 am, so I read my guide book and went back to sleep, before waking again at 7. I set off at 9 over the bridge and up the hill. Slightly lost at one point half way up the hill near the embassies, but eventually made it to the top, walking past the Castle and up to “The Loreta”.

The Loreta is a collection of old convent buildings. Just as I arrived the beautiful bells starting chiming. I paid 210 kn, which included a camera licence! That was almost the same price as a ticket but I could happily snap away to my heart’s content. It used to provide lodging for the pilgrims, since 1626, as evidenced by the number of shells incorporated into designs. One reason for the pilgrims was “the Holy Hut”- more like a miniature mansion. Legend says that Mary’s house was miraculously transported from Nazareth to Loreto in Italy in 1278 to save it from the infidels. This house and others claim to have small segments of the original house. I tend to be a real sceptic when it comes to the claims about the authenticity of relics, but there are many faithful who believe. This little chapel replicates Mary’s house in Italy. The sculptural work on the outside was wonderful. 
The Church of the Nativity was another example of 1722 extreme baroque style with the usual frescoes and lots of gold and marble. However to one side was a beautifully simple modern prayer chapel, which gave me more of a sense of God. There were many little chapels to specific saints but possibly the most bizarre was St. Starosta, who prayed to grow a beard to escape from being married. So her father crucified her!

Upstairs was “The Loreta Treasury” – a collection of vestments and religious items. Some stunning gold and silver work, several amazing monstrances including one made in 1699 and which had 6222 diamonds! Very shiny. Some fabulous examples of fine filigree work.

There was an interesting information section about different orders of priests and monks and their work in communities over time. Helping people during times of Plague and dying in the process. But possibly most significant at this remembrance time for the Czechs those priests in WW2. Some “fought”, some hid Jews/ other wanted people, and some who were just caught up in the terror of the process A number lost their lives either in WW2, or later during the Communist rule. One of the saddest was a German priest who ministered in the country during the war and was rounded up with other Germans and forced on a death march by the locals in retaliation for the German atrocities.
After all that information I left and headed for the cafĂ© over the road for a well -earned cup of delicious tea. From here I headed down the hill and up the hill (Found later that there was a road going around the back of the hill) to the Strahov Capuchin Monastery. Made it in time to hear the bells tolling for 12. Unfortunately that was both good and bad. Fabulous to hear the bells tolling for ten minutes. Bad because that meant it was now closed for a lunch break! So close and yet not. So I took photos from the outside and of the parkland below and set off down the hill, over the bridge and back to the hotel where I dropped off my backpack. 
Then I went out to find a restaurant for lunch. It was only 2 pm, but the one I wanted to try that advertised GF, was not at all accommodating and told me I needed a booking for lunch. There were six people in the place? So I went back to my hotel where I ordered and ate the MOST delicious steak and potatoes. The steak was so tender. Cooked perfectly to medium rare, but they served it with twelve tiny potatoes cut into halves= 24 pieces of potato! I couldn’t manage the last 6 pieces so they were my dinner. Well worth every cent of 569kn ($34) Staggered up the stairs, downloaded photos and wrote in my diary. (6:30: time for a dinner break) Bed at 11 after packing, while uploading. Internet speed exceptionally slow tonight.

Saturday, 9 June 2018

Day 23 Clock Tower and Castle


Day 23 Clock Tower and Castle
9.8 kms and so many steps (600+)
Woke before the alarm and finished linking and sending off yesterday’s email. Packed my umbrella and coat for the forecast rain. Breakfast and then headed off to the Town Hall meeting place for the replacement tour. I was there so quickly, because I didn’t get lost! And then I remembered I wanted my guidebook for later, so I returned to the hotel picked it up and got back there without getting lost again!

The guide turned up around 9:25 and organised my ticket for the tower and English speaking guide for the Town Hall tour. Up I went to the top of the first section- level 1. Then you change lifts to get to the top of the tower and what a view! 360 and great day for photos. And I got a great view because there were only a few up there early.  I went down, after forgetting where we had to meet, just in time to catch the English speaking group tour of the Town Hall.
Incredible views from above

The Astronomical clock is currently being repaired for their big celebrations in September. The Town Hall was quite fascinating and even better you can take photos on the tour. The guide was great. The underground section was even more interesting, especially with the connection this week of the resistance fighters and Liberation Day. What was interesting was to see the original street level. It used to be almost a whole floor lower. Besides the very old history, in modern history the entire wing of the building and part of the tower was destroyed in 1945 by the retreating Nazi army.

After the tour I had a cup of awful tea at one of the cafes. Then I walked down across the Charles Bridge and up to the St Nicholas Church– very impressive but still too baroque for me. From here I climbed up the 220 steps on Zamecke schody to the Castle. I was a bit cranky about parts of my visit. The palace was closed at the moment! And I had to buy three different tickets to get into different sections. I did manage to get there just at the changing of the guards.
I saw the old Palace, The story of the Prague castle, Basilica of St. George, the treasury of St. Vitus cathedral,
St Vitus- amazing stainglass
Golden Lane and St Vitus’s Cathedral. The Powder Tower and the Palace were being renovated. I stopped for lunch before seeing more sights. Another cuppa before going down the wretched steps again, but I had to guess how to get back to the bridge area because they were the old steps and I went up the new steps. My radar must have been working today because I found it. Crossed the bridge, stopped at a souvenir shop and back here at 6:15.
Golden Lane

A hot bath using the bath salts. My legs were aching from all the stairs. I guestimated that I had climbed up or down 600 +! I washed my clothes, answered some emails then I had to use my time answering two extensive surveys about the hotel in Amsterdam. Interesting some very negative comments from previous customers: yes I agree that the rooms and en-suites were tiny, the shower leaked through the door onto the outside floor, you needed to be a contortionist to get the toilet paper, the bed was impossibly small as was the wardrobe, paper cups instead of real ones/ glasses was ordinary, the walls were paper thin and the carpet and paint looked tired. But after Paris, I wasn’t too upset. Some people must have had really bad rooms. I booked an online pickup from the train in Budapest. Wrote my diary, but no time left for photos, bed at 11.

Day 22 Cezky Krumlov- Lovely day, rain held off


Day 22 Cezky Krumlov-
8 kms of walking and 6 hours of sitting on a bus.

I woke before the alarm and tried to upload photos while I was at breakfast, but it was still so slow.  I was to meet the day tour to Cezky Krumlov near the Powder Tower. And of course I got hopelessly lost yet again, but arrived with time to spare. 26 in the tour group. A range of ages, sizes and abilities and, as became obvious, those who were interested and those who must have had a spare day and decided to catch the bus to “who cares”? We set off with our guide Jan. The countryside was just beautiful. Green crops and yellow rape flowers. The rape is used for machine oil. We passed by four nuclear cooling towers. Czech gets its power from coal and nuclear.
Lovely Czech countryside
Powder Tower

At the first toilet stop I met my guide from yesterday and my two Russian/ Israeli companions. Back on the bus and three hours later we arrived at Cezky Krumlov another UNESCO heritage site. The second largest castle after Prague castle. The driver drove up behind the castle to the garden area and we walked down.
The views over the river the village were like a fairy tale.
We walked through the formal gardens and down through each court-yard , through the gorgeous little village at the foot of the castle and up the hill to the church. The party by this time had already started to decrease. Some got off the bus and basically wanted a restaurant. Some just wanted to shop. I stayed with the tour guide and saw and heard it all. I even had lunch with him in a gorgeous little restaurant that was underground. I had the “naked chicken” and a salad-, which was actually covered in gravy. €13.70 And who should come into the restaurant but my Israeli friends. They didn’t stay long because they were looking for a specific soup, which was not available.

I talked with Jan over our meal. He told me about his experiences living in Czechoslovakia. He was a boy during the German occupation, then lived in post war Czech, then Communist Czech and now in post- Communist Czech.
After lunch we walked back through the village to wait for our turn to see inside the castle.  One thing that was NOT mentioned when I booked, was that you were not allowed to take photos. However at least 1/3 of our group did when the castle guide was not watching and I found a lot of photos online that others had taken. The castle guide was quite difficult to understand and she had a very strong accent. The tour whingers started straight away. The castle decorations were as you would expect- very ornate. All too soon we were out the door, off to the toilet, walked down the hill to the bus and off we went back to Prague. Back through the beautiful countryside. We had to slow for a while for an accident.

We arrived back in the town at 6:30 and I promptly got lost twice before finding my way home, even from the Town Hall. A quick shower, washed my clothes and hair. Then typed my diary, edited the photos until late/ early next morning.
Lower Cesky Krumlov


Day 21 Mainly Jewish walking Tour in Prague


Day 21- Glorious and almost hot. Only 4 kms of walking but 4 hours of standing on hard floors!

Woke at 6 and got a few more days of blogs up to date, then dressed and had breakfast. Back to my room to wait until 10:40. I uploaded right up to Blog 17 before grabbing my bag to head down.
The driver arrived 20 minutes early and drove me in the most circuitous direction to get to the meeting point. He dropped me off and I took a few photos of the buildings at that end of the town near the museum. Lots of Art Deco buildings in Prague.

I met the guide, Anna, for the “Jewish Walking Tour” and eventually the other couple in the tour arrived: Alex and Tania from Israel/ Russia, and we began to talk and walk. Our meeting place was actually the Hotel Europa where Sir Nicholas Winton stayed, while he was organising how to rescue 669 young Jewish children from Czechoslovakia to England.
Some Jews were able to emigrate as early as 1938. In 1939 Hitler invaded Czechoslovakia. Because  he considered Czechs to be a low order of people, they were treated with a total lack of humanity. Czechs were used as forced labour. They had a strong resistance army but this was met with massive retaliation. During WW2 320.000 civilian Czechs were killed and 2,500 military. 80,000 Jews were killed by Germans/collaborators, mostly in Auschwitz, which was 84% of the pre- war Jewish population. Even after Liberation the Germans continued to bomb and terrorize Czechoslovakia. At the end of the war Germans were forced out of the country by Czechs. Some were murdered in retaliation.   
A few of the 80,000 Czech and Moravian Jews
 murdered on the walls of the Pinkas Synagogue 
One of the most moving displays.
Art works by children who were
later killed.


Today there are 7 million visitors each year in Prague, who come from 73 countries.
We walked back down the hill through the Old Town to the old Jewish quarter (Between Stare Mesto and Josefov) near the river. We went into several sights including the Old Jewish Cemetery, Ceremonial Hall, Pinkas Synagogue and the spectacular Spanish Synagogue. One of the saddest parts was the exhibition of children’s art work done in the Terezin camp. All these children were killed and what trauma they had already witnessed in their lives. In the old cemetery the gravestones are centuries old. The oldest 1439.  Then we went through the Ceremonial hall which showed us about the burial practices of the Jews. Their faith demands that they are buried, and has many rituals, so being burnt in the crematoriums could be seen as really annihilating them. Thankfully the tour ended up on a much brighter note in the Spanish Synagogue. OMG there are NO words to describe the opulence of this place of worship. Truly amazing. It is now used for concerts, as are many of the churches in Prague.
All hand painted!

Spanish Synagogue
From here we said goodbye to our guide (3pm).  I needed food and by now it was hot. Those tiny alleys and squares heat up during the day. They must be unbearable in summer? On the way back to the Town Square I happened to find a shop that sold gf items. Not great quality- the usual tastes like it is already stale kind. But needs must.
I stopped at the Hussite church of St. Nicholas. Combining several main ideas from a few faiths. It had originally been a Catholic church. In the square I had a Caesar salad and a tea in one of the many cafes at 4: 15. Back to the hotel- finally picking the fastest way, where I had to iron some of my lighter tops. Completed the last upload of the blogs and started typing today’s news.
8pm and now time for photo editing and uploading. Really tired tonight. My cold is considerably better but still lingering. My voice comes and goes during the day. The worst part is the coughing fits that just keep going!