Day 20 Prague – Marathon day Glorious sunshine

5 kms walking

Woke just before the alarm.  The drunken yobs woke me at 2:30 but I went back to sleep. Very comfy sleep and mostly quiet except for that one interruption. I organised my bag/ clothes then went to breakfast. Great spread for most of the population, just not the gf’s. So back to my room to pick up some porridge and rice cakes. The jam is in jars here and the eggs are peeled, but there was baked beans and fruit. I managed to have enough but realised that I had very little voice.

After breakfast I set off to the clock tower and promptly got lost. Managed to get there easily yesterday, but when I hit the river today I knew I was in trouble. It was even more complicated because the marathon was being run and the streets down there were full of people and barriers. Finally many stops to look at the street names and ask I found the man with the blue and white umbrella.

He was most apologetic because the tour had been cancelled due to the marathon, which didn’t surprise me at all. So I re booked for Wednesday and walked down to the supermarket. Only issue was that it was on the other side of the race. So I had to walk along the tape until I saw that they were allowing people to cross, only during a gap in the runners. Unfortunately some idiots thought that they could just walk across when they felt like, narrowly missing runners. The police and officials shouted at them, which made no difference at all. Found the supermarket and found the GF section. Yippee. No bread, but there were rolls and I’m guessing that because today is Sunday that is a bonus. I bought tomatoes, goat’s cheese, the rolls, sliced meat, some fruit and banana chips- all the nuts were gone. (I’m guessing the runners had them?) I was also looking for a small sharp knife and through the power of mime was told I’d find them on the fourth floor. Paid for my items and up I went. Another mime session up there because I only wanted a cheap one. Everything in my back pack and I walked back across the marathon to the hotel. I put my things in the fridge , grabbed a glass of water, removed my vest- glorious day today- and set off for the Charles Bridge.

I’d decided if most people were watching or running in the marathon there would be less people on the bridge and I was right. However I had to cross the marathon again. Sauntered over the bridge, listening to the music, taking lovely photos and looking at the little stalls. Back across the bridge, through the marathon and back to the hotel for lunch. A roll and several cups of tea.

I settled in to edit the photos from Bruges > till now. The cleaning ladies were surprised to see me in here but I’m determined to catch up.

At 4:15 I began my own marathon of catching up on both blog and emails and finished at 10. still more on the blogs to go but all the writing edited and ready. Bed 10:30

Day 19 Amsterdam to Prague- Lovely weather T- shirt in Prague.

4.27 kms walking.

Woken by some yobo and his mates shouting in the street below at 5. Then an unloading truck! Finally time for the alarm, but by then I had booked a shuttle from the Prague airport, a final pack and downstairs for breakfast….which didn’t open till 7:30 on Sat/ Sun! Back to my room for a while then back again. Gulping it down this time. Up to pick up my bag, checked out and waited in the foyer for the shuttle bus for an 8:15 pickup. Hacking cough now and it has moved down to my lungs, so I’m glad I have the antibiotics.

The driver was early at 8:05- love it when they are early. At the airport by 9. Very busy airport. So again asking lots of questions and directions. Got my boarding pass, and it was listed as Sky Priority again which means the faster lanes. Security was fairly strict- scarf, vest, jacket, boots off, computer out and then I got the most personal pat down ever, including all parts of my bra- front and back and waistband of my pants - thankfully by a lovely but professional lady. My carry on got “done” again. Had to unzip it – they just wanted to look in my cord bag and instamatic camera? All done and walked up to the gate to sit for the next two hours. Got a cuppa and typed up my diary from yesterday. They were being very strict on carry-on luggage. Basically one bag unless you are Priority! I only had one anyway. I typed up all of yesterday’s diary with my computer in my carefully balanced airport style. Back pack on floor. Handbag on top, with the strap around my waist. Cover for the computer on top to form a steady base and good to go. Finally time to put the computer away and go to the toilet before boarding.

I got to go on board right after the kids and elderly! And 7D so right near to the front. We took off 5 minutes late and landed five minutes early for the 55 minute flight and in between time my ears gave me hell and my sinuses were unhappy too! When I was reading my book about Prague, the man next to me showed me places to go in Prague and told me to use the ATM or card not the money changers. The local currency is the koruna. The exchange rate is about 1€ = 22 Kcl. The money changers here are basically sharks and not to be trusted and he didn’t have much good to say about taxis either. He suggested I should catch the public Metro or walk.

Disembarked at Prague and happened to check my pocket for a tissue and what did I find? The hard-boiled egg I’d forgotten about from breakfast, but absolutely smashed to pieces. Luckily it was wrapped in a napkin. So that got put in the bin on the way through. It is a much smaller airport than many capital cities. I waited in the queue at the ATM and only wanted to get a small amount of money, because you have trouble changing it at the end.

I found the shuttle man waiting for me with a sign but there was some language confusion and I was waiting for him while he thought I was following him. The shuttle company rang me on my phone to solve the issue and soon I was in the shuttle.

Prague is not at all what I expected. The countryside comes right up to the city. Huge green and yellow fields and very hilly. In the city section, we drove through some rather sad, high rise apartments and neglected houses and nature strips, until the streets got narrower and narrower and in some places steeper and steeper. Basically a bit scruffy. Cobbles replaced bitumen and the lovely old buildings emerged once we crossed the river. The Vltava River is very wide and has a series of impressive bridges crossing it. The streets were only just wide enough at times for a car, so pedestrians had to move out of the way. Eventually I was dropped off near my hotel door €15 which included a tip. Much cheaper than a taxi. I had to drag my case along the last 50 metres over cobblestones.

The Savic Hotel used to be a 13C monastery, now a 28 room gorgeous boutique hotel. The receptionist, Alice, was lovely.

My room was big, with two full size beds. Lovely furniture and a much larger bathroom with all the bits that most hotels supply. It even had both a jug and a coffee machine and a fridge! And a restaurant, which serves all day. I had a shower, unpacked and washed my clothes. Eventually I got a grilled chicken salad, despite having issues with asking for gf. It was delicious, especially at 3:45 and I had a cup of tea, which came in a bucket size cup. It cost 278K = about €12.

While I was seated outside I was people watching. There seemed to be a LOT of party goers both men and women. Hundreds of tourists packing every restaurant or narrow alley way eating the local ice-cream, or drinking beer. Many groups following tour guides. Then there were the tourists who had come to see the city by themselves walking around, map in hand looking up and down (cobblestones) but with no bicyclists ready to run them down. What a blessing.

After “lunch” I went for a stroll. It is a difficult place to get your bearings /directions because the streets are so narrow, the houses so tall and the streets don’t follow a grid or pattern, but I didn’t get lost, so that was a bonus.

I walked to the Bethlehem Chapel and learned all about Jan Hus, who was burned at the stake for being a heretic. His crime was basically pointing out the corruption of the Catholic Church at that time and making some suggestions about ways to improve it, to be more equitable for the poorer majority. He lived in the house attached to the chapel and preached to 3000 people at a time in the chapel. I think the entrance fee was 6k.

From here I walked around taking random photos of buildings until I reached the town square. This is where I am supposed to be having a walking tour tomorrow. Except it is also the venue for a marathon race, which was being set up. Hopefully I find the tour leader tomorrow? The other bothersome fact is that famous Astrological clock is being renovated.  I returned to the hotel about 6. My nose was not happy flying again but seems to be better inside. Very civilised in this room, a tea pot for the tea and real cups!

Iran out of time to download photos but should get extra tomorrow afternoon and this chair is quite uncomfortable.

Day 18 Day trip to Bruges- perfect weather

8.1 kms walking

Woken again by bus transfer downstairs. If I ever stay here again make sure not above the front door. Breakfast at 7:30 and off on tram 2 to Central and the short walk down to the office of the travel company at 8:45 for the trip to Bruges. Two buses for all the people. I was on a double-decker bus on the top and on a window seat. 84 passengers. Unfortunately for me a group of 12 Indian/ Sri Lankan men were sitting directly behind me who were rude and inconsiderate.

Our tour guide was Marianne and our driver was Harry. Both were fabulous. Marianne had to give the commentary in two languages- English and Spanish and she swapped so quickly! The commentary was great. Lots of information, not an overload, but not much rest time between for Marianne. The country side was just beautiful, so rural and incredibly flat. Not a slight hill the whole way. Lots and lots of canals and a few windmills. Many of these were destroyed when machine pumps took over, but thankfully some were saved- for tourists and for their history.

8 million visit Bruges each year. It has UNESCO world heritage listing because of the medieval town and was saved twice from destruction in WW2. It took three hours to arrive When we arrived outside Bruges we all queued up for the toilet- 50 p. Then it was follow the leader with our head sets in and onto the various major sights. Marianne had told us which stops we would be doing and I had marked them on the map they provided. The whinging group of men complained the whole time, just wanting to stop at a restaurant.

Finally at 2:15 it was free time for the next 3 ½ hours and time to get some food and more water. I retraced the places she had shown us on the way to the old square and took a lot of photos because it was such a beautiful old town. I ate lunch sometime after 3 pm – fries and water. Very cheap from a street vendor. Delicious, but again a large serve even when I asked for a small. It was a perfect day for walking and there was so much to see. The churches were amazing- baroque style. Huge and so many in such a small town. I went through three.

In one was a cloth with the” genuine blood of Christ”. In another was the only sculpture by Michelangelo outside Italy. A beautiful Madonna and child.  The churches had been so carefully restored. The stain glass windows were incredible too.

I was finished under the allocated time and waited back at the meeting point along with a few others. Most were laden with chocolates and other goodies. We were all back on the bus at 6 for the trip back again, returning the same way home because of a traffic accident. We arrived back at Central as the sun was setting – 9:20. (The unruly continued to be problematic on the return trip.)

Fortunately the celebrations were finished by now and all the trams were running. May 4 is the Dutch Remembrance Day for all those who died in WW2. Celebrations are held on May 5, for Liberation Day. On the way to Bruges we passed by a huge Canadian soldier’s cemetery. Brussels had very little damage done in WW2 because the king was complicit with Hitler. He was removed from power as soon as the war was over. However in WW1 there was huge destruction and loss of life.

I caught the 5 tram and was back at the hotel at 10:15. It was a long day. I downloaded photos because I was concerned about my cameras. Answered a few quick emails, packed my bag, then bed after 12! 

Day 17 Amsterdam museums: Glorious sunshine and mild

5.5 kms walking

Reasonable night’s sleep, except for the coughing. I think the antibiotics have kicked in this afternoon, so my sinuses are less painful. My throat is still sore and lumpy. Still quite difficult to swallow but now it just feels like pointy rocks going down, not razor blades. I just ate an orange and you would have thought it was acid!

Today had some highs and lows.

After breakfast, not much again because of my throat.

After breakfast a very quick walk up to the Van Gogh Museum for my 9 am ticket. Along the way I tried to take photo of the selfie point outside the Rijksmuseum. My camera would not focus and was giving me an error message about the lens. It was a short wait in line and then inside along with many others. No photos allowed in here. I tried to solve my camera issue, but nothing would work. The lens was not connecting properly. Slightly disappointed given that Vincent was prolific. I know they rotate and lend some out, but many of my most favourites were not there. However I did add a new favourite to my list- “the shoes” 1886 and a wonderful self-portrait, that showed so much of his torment. It was good to be able to see some of his simple drawings/ musings too. He was a skilled technician and made numerous studies of parts of the body.  There was an exhibition of his letters- not much good if you can’t read Dutch?  All done and out of there in one hour.

Then I had a problem. Go onto the Rijksmuseum “next door “, or walk back to the hotel and pick up my other camera, which I did. NOBODY was in the queue at the Rijks on the way past but the crowds were there when I returned.

Again check in my coat and backpack, but you can go crazy in there taking as many photos as you like. I love the paintings of everyday life in the Middle Ages - especially the “Hell and Damnation” ones. Definitely one way to get the locals to church. They also have some lovely wooden carvings from the era too. Of course my favourite and obviously everyone else’s were the Vermeer’s and Rembrandt’s. The crowds in those two rooms rivalled the Boxing Day sales. I felt really sorry for all the kids, who were absolutely bored out of their brains and just wanted to go.  Two hours at the Rijksmuseum and I was ready to go. I would have gone back for another refresher, but desperately needed a drink for my throat and there was a huge queue for the café.

From here I walked across the canal and saw yet another serious pedestrian/ cyclist prang. Dutch bike riders are lethal. There must be laws about riding a bike? I know all kids have to pass both a written and practical test in bike riding. No helmets and many don’t obey the lights, or indicate, or ring any warning and are clever enough to talk and text while riding. They also ride on any side of the road or bike lane and even the footpath. Today I saw a tiny car using the bike lane. Wheelchairs and scooters use the bike lanes too. So pedestrians are constantly turning their heads to avoid being hit.

After crossing the canal, I caught the number 7 tram to get closer to the Jewish Museum. A fifteen minute walk from the tram stop to the Jewish Museum, but on the way I stopped for lunch. I needed a hot drink for my throat. Found a really cute little café “Cantrell” for a cuppa. Obviously used by locals because it was really busy. The meals looked great and were very reasonably priced. €4.50 for a cuppa and small chips. Lucky I didn’t say a big serve, because it was enormous and my throat wasn’t in the mood for crunchy chips. No gf in this area. I was hoping for soup.

First stop on my Jewish quest was the Portuguese Synagogue. (€13, which is a pass for 5 sights in the town.)  This synagogue was built in 1675. At one time it was the largest one in Europe, modelled on the Jewish Temple. It is a HUGE building, but quite austere inside. Completely looted by the Germans during the war. They had a good system using the pod casts for information and it was interesting learning about their religious practices.

Over the road was the Jewish Historical Museum. Another free audio commentary. The photo exhibition was good, especially the section about Holland after the war/ Hunger Winter. Small, but incredibly graphic. I stopped for another cuppa. It might have the only Kosher café in the city, but it only had one thing that was gf- coconut balls. I had to buy two? €6.45 for a drink and snack. There was so much to do and listen to in the centre. It would be easy to spend two hours in here looking at every item. I liked using the audio pods.

I left at about 4 in glorious sunshine and headed for the tram stop. Along the way, there was a memorial to the 200 Jews who lived along one of the canals and were shot during WW2. I arrived back here from tram 10, just before 4:30. I tried for a while to solve the camera issue! Not going to be solved. Had my shower, downloaded and edited the photos, then typed my diary, eating another delicious egg sandwich for dinner.

Now it’s time to see if I can organise a shuttle bus to the airport for Saturday morning. Tomorrow is the bus trip to Bruges and then it’s goodbye Amsterdam.

Day 16 Amsterdam –Sunny, but very cold wind

8.6 kms of walking

A “marginally“better night’s sleep. I was being kind to myself so no alarm clocks But I was surprised when I woke at 8:15. My throat was sore, red and yucky. Obviously I was going to need a chemist today. I had a much better breakfast with my own gf porridge (add boiling water and stir and it tastes “almost” like it has been microwaved) plus my own rice cakes.

Caught the tram, but this time stopped at a chemist two stops away and explained my throat. Got more tablets to suck and some nasal spray. Back on the tram to the station and then a walk to Museum Ons Lieve Heer op Solder. I loved it. Not just because it was one of the hidden house Catholic Churches, but the great commentary pod casts available and the way they have painstakingly reproduced the exact home of the 17th century. Although you were not allowed to be a practising Catholic or anything other than the official church, the Dutch didn’t openly persecute those of different faiths, as long as it was private. Hence churches set up in the third/fourth/ fifth floors. Fabulous just being able to walk through/ up and down it. Definitely NOT for those with bad knees or hips because of all the very steep steps.

My next visit was to be the Oude Kirke. Walked down there - closed until May 23 for renovations!

Instead I meandered through the squares and over bridges and canals making my way towards my afternoon tour at 2pm at the Jewish Museum. However on my way I spotted a café which had a sign “gluten free available”. I ordered the pasta pollo (Pasta with chicken and mushrooms) It might have taken a while to cook (obviously fresh) but was delicious and I almost demolished the entire large bowl. €14 pasta and tea.

Next stop the Jewish museum to find the guide. I’d booked “the Jewish Quarter Anne Frank walking tour” online based on the mention of the Jewish Museum, the Spanish Synagogue, Anne Frank’s House.  Yes they were all mentioned in the tour and yes we walked past each one, but we didn’t enter any of them!  The actual tour description was more accurate: “walk through Amsterdam with a professional guide that shows Amsterdam during WW2 through the eyes of Anne Frank” 

I was not the only one to have been confused and while the guide was really good and very knowledgeable, I consequently missed seeing places that were on my “must see” list.

From the end of the tour at Anne Frank’s house, I walked back to Dam Square to catch the tram back to the hotel. By now my throat had reached a new plateau in pain. It hurt to breathe through my nose, swallowing felt like razor blades going down and hurt my ears to do so. I was definitely reaching for the anti- biotics I had bought.

However a slight issue when I entered my room. The rubbish bag was on my desk and nothing else had been done, which was very unusual. As I was going down in the lift I met a member of staff. He immediately came up to my room to check and offered me another room, or free breakfast or a wine. I only wanted fresh towels! But I got a fee drink of ginger ale.

Day 15 Amsterdam to Keukenhof Gardens. Pelting down in the morning to sunny in the afternoon.

Only 5.5 kms walking today.

I had an awful night’s “sleep”. My cold/ virus sent me a temperature, headache, runny nose and a vicious sore throat. By the time I woke up at 6:30 I just wanted to turn over and go back to sleep, but not today. It was the garden day. I ate very little at breakfast and was soon suited up for the pouring rain.

Once again up to the tram stop and into Central Station, then I walked down to the meeting point for this tour. Not the best organised system, but eventually all the bus tours left and we were on our way to a bulb farm and one of the most important parts of this stop- the Keukenhof Gardens.

The bus was full but I was lucky enough to get a window seat. Most on the bus spoke English, but some needed a Spanish translation for the commentary, so the guide said it in English first, then Spanish. We drove out of Amsterdam along some very flat areas. The Netherlands has 26% below sea level and Amsterdam has some parts that are 4 metres below. That’s why they have locks, dikes and canals that are paid for by a special tax.

Our first stop was a bulb growing farm. The farmer was really interesting. They actually strip the flower off the plant to make the bulb grow bigger. The bulbs are grown in a very sandy soil on a regular crop rotation are never watered because the water table is just below the surface. He told us that we must dig up and move our bulbs every year and cautioned us about buying from the bulb sellers in the town flower district. Apparently the bulbs are old ones and will not flower? We had a cup of tea in the shed €1.50 and some bought bulbs and other tulip related items. We also watched a short video about the 10 billion- yes that was billion- bulbs grown every year for sale. He had some amazing types of daffodils, hyacinths and tulip blooms in the shed. 

From here we drove straight to Keukenhof to park along with the hundreds of other buses and cars. We were given specific instructions that we must be on the bus at 3:45. It was a very efficient and quick way to enter. I grabbed a map and set off to revel in the fabulous garden. Despite the recent rain and today’s wind the flowers were holding up reasonably well. They plant the bulbs here in three levels so that there will always be blooms for the short 8 week season. In the 8 weeks they get 1 million visitors. The garden designs were just beautiful. I wasn’t a fan of the special display areas- they seemed to be more gimmicky. The view from the windmill was a dud- most of the viewing area had already been ploughed up.  There was lots to see. And hundreds of people all doing the same, but with 32 hectares (79 acres) and 7 million tulips, hyacinths and daffodils there was plenty for everyone. Unfortunately Keukenhof does NOT cater for gf’s. I had some snacks with me and had several lots of tea. €2.50 each.

Soon time to get back on the bus and head back to town. By now the sun was shining and the sea of umbrellas from this morning had disappeared, but the crowds hadn’t. I stopped at McD for a chicken Caesar salad and small fries. The fries I ate and the salad I bought back for dinner. I caught the tram back to the hotel area, had a shower and washed my hair and clothes, took a Zytec and Panadol then started typing. 8:10 and still sunshine. Finished the delicious salad and editing. 9:00 and the sun is almost setting!

Day 14 Amsterdam…RAIN, if it wasn’t drizzling 8.5 kms walking and hours standing.

Woke with my own internal clock at 7 but very tired today. I woke with a sore throat/ sinus/ sneezing and feeling very average. My sinuses are also hating the room deodorizer they use in this hotel. I went down to breakfast and no GF, except the eggs, oranges and the tea. Great spread for those who aren’t gf though. Luckily I had some instant gf porridge, which helped.

After breakfast I made my way up to the tram stop and tried to navigate the ticket machine on the platform- no hope. However you can buy a ticket on the tram, so that problem was solved. €3 for an hour. I only needed to get to Central Station and I planned to catch the Hop On / Off bus until I was back.

I found my way from the Station back to the meeting place for my first great walking tour, led by Arthur. Only 9 in the group, which was perfect. Some tours had 20/30 in the group. Lots of history- but not an overload. Some interesting places to visit and a coffee/ tea stop in the middle, where three of the party had a delicious looking apple cake with a mountain of cream. The only bad thing was the weather. The first half was in drizzle and the second half was in serious rain. So my plastic over pants came out of my back pack at the coffee stop and I was as dry as toast. Part of the tour was in the Red Light district. I don’t think I have ever seen more bored ladies. The ones we saw were usually young, gorgeous, naturally scantily “dressed”, but some smoking and all on their mobile phones.

The city was a mix today. Public transport strike for two days = huge queues for every bus/ tram. The weather was appalling, so everyone wanted to minimize walking time. Umbrellas as far as you could see. This is definitely NOT a city for a relaxing stroll. Those bike riders/ cars / buses will get you every time. My neck was on a constant see saw trying to see what I was about to run into/ was about to run into me. 

After the tour 10 > 12:45 pm I eventually found a café for a cuppa and some fries. Note to self: next time check the size of the fries portion. Huge pile, but delicious and that will be my main meal of the day. €8.50 for lunch. Of course I found a McD about five minutes after I had eaten, but the weather was not conducive to searching for anything interesting. It was still bucketing down. I did however find a tiny supermarket which sold rice cakes, giving me some options re food. And I found the Dutch fabric shop- closed on Mondays! In fact it was closed all week.

From here I walked up to the Central Station area to catch the Hop on Hop off bus- along with the rest of the world. I had to wait in the queue, in the rain, for 45 minutes before I reached the top of the queue. Everyone waited patiently to progress up the queue. I was slightly cranky when I got on the bus because it was raining so heavily and the windows were so foggy you could barely see anything! But I had pre bought my ticket back home and wasn’t able to change to a better day. The rain stopped for about 20 minutes halfway round the circuit. As we were nearing the end, it started bucketing down again. I wasn’t in the mood for more rainy shots and possibly was going to need a bathroom at some point, so got off and caught a tram back to the hotel area.

I arrived at 5:15 which was quite enough in such bad weather. Three cups of tea and an apple later, my diary is up to date. Now to download and edit photos and hopefully an earlier night. My nose now running!