Day 26 Mexico City

National Museum of Anthropology and History

Woke and ate a leisurely breakfast because we had planned to visit the Palacio de Belles Artes before the museum. But we had to change our plans as the part we wanted to see was only open on Sundays and Wednesdays. So we changed our route to take us directly to the National Museum of Anthropology and History. 

Arrived at the Museum shortly after 10:30, and began a long day of looking and being constantly in awe of the Mexican ancestor’s incredible talents and skills. This museum is one of the best ever in both displays and presentation and I’ve seen a few in my time!

On this visit I was able to see 20 of the 22 sections in a six hour marathon with time off for morning tea and lunch. I took several hundred photos of amazing pottery, ceramics, carvings, jewellery, textiles, paintings and detailed large scale dioramas. My most favourite, and there were many, were the paintings found on the walls of temples, the reconstructed temple carvings, the quirky little statues- so life like, the beadwork and the textiles.  It really is an experience not to be missed for the history/ art buff. The restaurant’s food was also brilliant. Cheesecake for morning tea and a delicious chicken salad for lunch. 

Eventually I had seen it all and it was time to cruise the gift shop before making our way over the road to catch a taxi, where we  embarked on the next “adventure” of our lives.

We approached one of the pink and white city taxis. I didn’t like the look of the car or the man, who spoke very little English. Heather asked about the journey and was told $240 (absolute garbage should have been $140) She bartered and we got in. No working seat belts and dirty inside. Traffic was at a crawl- more road closures. Lots of honking and jostling along the way, until the traffic thinned bit, where he went a bit faster, but there were many moments of shutting eyes as he narrowly missed being hit. When he got closer to our hotel, the road was suddenly closed by police. Consequently causing the three lanes we were on and the three lanes next to us and the two lanes coming into the intersection to have to dovetail into three only! More shut eyes. He hurtled along when able to, went through a red light twice, up a one way street (the wrong way) and finally dumped us three blocks from our hotel, pointing the way.  Then he wanted the $240. Heather gave him $200, which he was not happy about. We walked the rest of the way to the hotel passing police cars and police vans. More blocked sections.

Finally home to sit and have a well- earned drink and watch the crazy world pass us by. The young man ringing a large school bell in front of the rubbish truck? The tourist bus that pulled up, tried to wipe out its rear view mirror on the tree and a man jumped out from underneath (scaring us) and proceeded to pull out the luggage? A bus load of kids and parents got out, unfortunately filling up the foyer and the lift. 

Shower to wash my hair, downloaded photos, recharged all my batteries and typed out today’s story and now it is time for a very light dinner. 8 pm. 

The travel agent has rung to confirm pickup time tomorrow. So all too soon we will begin the arduous journey home. Photos are taking a long time to upload so will add tomorrow.

Day 25 Mexico City

Woke in my lovely comfy bed and we went down for breakfast and it was wonderful to have delicious fresh fruit, which consisted more than over ripe watermelon/ pineapple and grapefruit. This fruit salad consisted of cantaloupe, strawberries, mango and watermelon. Yum. (Heather and I were constantly amazed that we saw SO much fruit growing in Cuba but the quality of fruit on the menus was usually appalling.)

What wasn’t good as Cuba was the tea. The hot water was in an urn that had obviously been used for coffee and that was the taste you got. Coffee flavoured tea.

That is one thing that is very hard to get used to is their currency. Currently the exchange rate is about $1 AUS to $14 MEX. So you have bills of $250 for breakfast. Or $64 for two cups of tea!

On the way in the taxi

Nice taxi to the Zocalo area and we began our adventures of trying to cross the roads over here. “Slightly” daunting. The green man does not always mean it is safe to cross. 

We went into the Cathedral. This time I was allowed right inside and it was fantastic. It is most impressive. All they need to do now is to clean the outside to its former glory and it will absolutely amazing.

one of the altars

After our church visit it was off to find "The Gran Hotel Cuidad de Mexico” Originally constructed in 1899, designed in the lavish Art Nouveau with incredible stained glass ceiling designed by Jacques Gruber.  Stunning doesn’t do it justice and then there was the intricate staircase and elevator screen. We went in to have a cup of tea and Heather ordered an opera cake as well. All very impressive. The tea was just delicious.

part of the ceiling

one of the central designs!

However as we were being very refined, sipping our tea, we suddenly noticed the riot police running along the pavement outside. Followed by police cars and army trucks. No one seemed at all concerned? Apparently the Government office is just across the square and there are demonstrations every day. We left and crossed over to the square to get a good look at what was happening. There were more than 100 police in various uniforms guarding several section of the Government buildings in the square. We couldn’t see any demonstrators.

Off to find the hop on hop off bus. We opted for the three hour ride through the town- in retrospect one hour might have been enough. We did see a lot but we also travelled down some fairly ordinary sections and many times doubling back on our tracks. Finally at one stop by a very large modern complex we got off. It was close to 3pm and we hadn’t had lunch. I had a salad and Heather had spaghetti. We followed that with a gelato and then had a walk around the centre, before catching another taxi home to the hotel. 

Up to our room to dump things then out again on a mission to find fruit. We asked the receptionist who gave us a map and the worst instructions ever. We ended up asking everyone we met on a street corner and finally found a HUGE supermarket where I bought a few apples and bananas. The store was very similar to the one in Ensenada. 

Backtracked to find our way home- not following her instructions and had a cup of tea in the café outside. Delicious. 

Up in our room we both worked on our diary and the rain came down! We have been incredibly lucky with the weather. They had four days of rain before we arrived. We listened to the American news about Orlando. Only once did one man suggest that the gun laws needed to be changed to prohibit the use of assault weapons and he was howled down! Sadly the bias of the news was strongly anti- terrorist/ anti- Islamic and nothing about gun laws. 

Day 24 Havana to Mexico City

Woke and down for a leisurely breakfast. The taxi arrived early much to our surprise. It was horribly hot and the air was filled with car fumes.

After a somewhat “interesting” trip where both Heather and I were wondering if it was our turn to be kidnapped, we arrived at the airport, so early you couldn’t check in. We stopped to ask the lady at the information booth a few questions – if there was an airport tax and if there were any shops on the other side. No tax and yes to shops luckily. She asked us to fill in a form about our experiences in Cuba.

Lunch at the air port

Finally we went to stand in the queue, and stand and stand waiting for them to open that section. One hour later it was time for them to open the line to get checked in. Two counters for the whole plane. The people in front took 10 minutes, including repacking a slow cooker. Heather and I were processed really quickly. Through immigration and security very quickly. Heather had to get “wanded” because of her jean studs. I was ok! But it is watches and most other stuff off. However shoes stay on- possibly just as well in this heat.

On the other side there were some shops for the last minute present/ using up the last cuks. We bought Pringles, cola and water. Heather had no cuks left. I had 3 cuks. Not bad. Not one shop selling anything that vaguely resembled healthy food, definitely no GF, and of course no fruit. 

We sat in the exit aisle for 15 minutes before they moved us!

Of course our plane was not loaded on time, but eventually we got on and were most excited to find we had the safety row again. After we had settled in for a long wait on the tarmac, the steward came along fifteen minutes later and asked Heather to move. Would have been great for a faster exit- BUT all our hand luggage was stored above our old seat and of course the locker above had “?’s” luggage. 

We had waited for almost an hour on the plane before take-off.  Lunch was the usual croissant and custard.  I lip read and imagined the dialogue in the Kingsmen movie. The sound was once again appalling, but the plane had fabulous leg room. During the flight on one of my trips I secured my bags and stored them under the seat in front. We needed our handbags to fill in the immigration forms. It was lovely being able to watch the plane follow the coast on both Cuba and Mexico and over the fields. Some patches of clouds and a great view of the coral reef off Cuba.

The coral reef

We landed in Mexico City one hour late. What a difference. Lovely fresh building –still no toilet paper in the toilets- and much cooler. However the queue was enormous and the pace of processing unbelievably slow. We shuffled along at snail’s pace for one hour and 45 minutes until we reached the immigration counter. But still there was more….. Customs… Where I got my entire bags “checked” (I wouldn’t have minded so much if she actually checked anything instead of making such a cursory look) while Heather stood by barely containing her mirth.

Finally out of the torture chamber to a lovely new section of the airport , a little bit anxious that we were so late but not to worry there was our waiting hostess Alexandra - complete with a sign

The streets of Mexico City were relatively quiet in most places or it may have been the route the driver took. WE were a little disconcerted to see so many police cars and at one stage a barrier lined with police in full riot gear???? Alexandra told us it was a revolution. We are hoping she meant a demonstration?

Dropped off at our hotel to be met by courteous staff and free wifi cards. It might not have had the same magnificent architecture as our hotels in Cuba, but we both noticed that the lift did not smell of cigars. Our room was a delight. Clean and fresh- no smell, comfy beds, three pillows each, lovely sheets, an extra tap for filtered water, two toilet rolls with pretty decorations on them and a box of tissues- something you do not find in Cuba.

It was 8 pm, so we quickly dumped our things and went down to the dining room for a well-deserved dinner. Again we noticed the difference. Only one waiter who almost ran to complete tasks. We were served quickly and were delighted to see a big sign “no smoking” .Yippee. It had been a long day of standing!

Day 23 Havana

The sun was shining after last night’s mini rain episode. I woke earlier than Heather and got things ready and woke her at 8 am for shower and breakfast. Took down my own wheatbix this time after yesterday’s lack of significant food.  Different staff “on” – well their bodies were present, but the service was not and we had to wait for some time to get a cuppa. Tea was horribly strong so
I asked for hot water and eventually that came, so then I had two cups of tea out of one. We had a leisurely breakfast before beginning our stroll through the streets. 

It was surprisingly quieter than we expected, still plenty of tourists and locals, but not as bad as weekdays. It was hot- what a surprise!

We stopped for ice-cream- nice flavours, but melting faster than you could eat. The containers and spoons were washed out after each customer and reused.  Not sure how much they cost, but he nearly passed out when I handed over my last 20 cuk note. Turned out it was less than 1 cuk for the two. So I didn’t get to break that note. 

Eat it fast or watch it melt.

Strolled along looking at different shops and souvenir shops, until we hit pay-dirt with a mini craft market- selling lots of things you could not bring back to Australia. Finally found some lovely ear rings as my souvenir of Cuba. 

Cuba is definitely not a place to buy souvenirs- prices are relatively high and workmanship is basic with the exception of the beautiful embroidery and woodcarving. Every now andthen you find a treasure, but not often.

We hit another bonanza up the road when we found the local Etesca (internet cards) shop and our suspicions were confirmed. One hour cost only 2 cuks. We had been told to buy them up the road at a cost of 4.50 per hour!!!!!!! Someone is ripping off the system and more staff are ripping off the hotel’s customers by sending them up there. Fairly sure kickbacks are involved. Once again required our passports and had to wait to be allowed inside? Two at a time into a very large office space. Not sure what the plan is about keeping people waiting in the hot sun for their turn to get inside? It happens at banks, Etesca offices and many shops.

We walked into a "fast food area". Not at all like anything you ave ever seen. Minimal advertising , very basic foods for sale.

The food "mall". How many eggs did you want?

We kept walking till we met the T intersection, over the road and into the small park to sit and watch people but mostly to watch the glorious old cars. Eventually we wandered back along streets till we found a small café. The owner promised a lovely cool courtyard- what he neglected to say that the smell out there was just awful. Either sewer, garbage left in the bins in the sun or the two peacocks. Gulped down our lemonade and waited for the chicken salad. It was ok, the smell was not, so we didn’t stay long.

Cruised back through the streets to base camp and coolness. Heather had a rest and I typed and downloaded photos. Spent some frustrating

"Chemist"

 time trying to connect to the internet.

Some of the huge number of old cars

Day 22 Havana

Woke and had breakfast with Vikki and Ralph. Not much in the breakfast buffet for me, so I was very happy that the tea was quite nice. A long lingering breakfast followed by some computer work. Vikki and Ralph left at 10:30. I meant to mention yesterday that at this hotel all the taps are turned on the wrong way- anti clockwise.

1948 Ford

The bellboy rang for an old car for us and a bright yellow and orange 1948 Ford convertible arrived with a very smooth driver. After some discussion it was decided that we would go to Earnest Hemingway’s house- a long drive from the city plus see some of the city on the way back from our agreed one hour (35 cuk) ride!

The car’s gears were striped several times and it was a bit rough as it fell into the many potholes but we saw lots on the way out and back. We also saw many old cars and many broken down cars.

Hemingway’s house cost 5 cuk entry. We were expecting a drive past! We stopped and took photos. It reminded me of Monet’s home.

Hemingway's typewriter

It was quite hot driving with no air con and the top down, so the cloudy patches were welcome relief. Before long, it became quite evident that the driver was intending our journey to be at least two hours long and we found ourselves going through some lovely suburbs and through a delightful park where we stopped for photos. His English was mostly understandable, but some bits were a guess.

Then he decided that two hours wasn’t quite long enough and it ended up being three at a cost of 90 cuk!!! Yes we did see a lot of new things, but we also covered a lot of ground we had already seen on our tour and we had agreed to 1-2 hours not three. Not much we could do, except pay. He definitely cleaned us out of cuks. We were both hot and very sweaty when we returned to the hotel to find security guards everywhere? Must have been a money pick up we worked out. We downed two cold lemonades very quickly.

At 2:00 we walked up to yesterday’s restaurant and shared a chicken paella. Golly what a huge amount there was. Very tasty, but I didn’t like the chicken bits. Back to the hotel and tried to get another internet card from a closer source but they had run out. Up to our floor where we tried to sit in one of the lovely coffee table areas but the smell of cigars and cigarette butts was overwhelming and my computer need power.

I downloaded photos onto a usb and then from today’s card- power very slow today for every process.

It soon became quite dark and I looked out the window to discover it was raining. Not long after the rumble of thunder could be heard. Definitely time for a cuppa or a light snack, so we went down to the courtyard and had a drink followed by a light dinner while listening to yet another band- this time featuring a marimba. Lovely music.

BANG the 9 o’clock canon just fired.

Day 21 Baracoa to Havana

Woke just before the alarm and finished packing. Of course it was hot. We sat up by the pool briefly and I got on the internet before going up to breakfast. Only fruit for breakfast. I just couldn’t face another egg. Back to our room to bring up the bags, but we were in luck. Some of the staff were nearby and quickly took our bags and carried them up. Bonus

Jose and Vladimir were 20 minutes early but everyone was early so we gave them their tips and caught the bus for the ridiculously short trip to the plane. It was just around the corner but I never heard a plane during our time there?

Baracoa check in.

The Baracoa “airport” is “interesting”. One small building.

Once you check in your luggage you wait outside on the gutter or there is space under the nearby tree. Then you have to wait and wait until they call you back into the room and allow you to enter into the last waiting room two at a time. Carryon baggage through the x-ray machine and you walk through the scanner to sit and wait some more. One stall selling two kinds of soft drinks and that was it. Eventually we walked over the tarmac to the small twin engine (prop) aircraft. Of we went and took off before the end of the runway and the sea ahead. I had a window seat and took lots of photos. It was interesting to see Cuba from the air, but didn’t recognise any features.  We had to avoid some thick cloud at times. Any time went through the cloud the plane had a few dips.

After 2 hours it was time to land in Havana and rather fortunately after four days of rain it was just cloudy. The domestic airport was even smaller than the international one. The bags took 15 mins to come through and included a vast number of cardboard boxes that all looked exactly the same, but were claimed by their owners?  Jose made sure we were handed over to the company rep and we caught a very clean taxi to the city- takes about half an hour. When we arrived at Placio O’Farrell, Vikki and Ralph were right behind us, but the rooms were not ready. So the porter showed us a great restaurant for lunch. Heather and I opted for the 20 cuk meal of three courses and drinks. Vikki and Ralph joined us. They had the seafood paella and raved about it.

When we returned to the hotel- issue when we entered our room it STANK of mildew. Even the sheets were damp and the air con wouldn’t work. So we went for a walk to get an internet card- exorbitantly priced down the road at 4.50cuk for an hour. We tried unsuccessfully to find another hotel who sold them, but couldn’t. Back to the stinky hot room where a succession of workmen came up and tried unsuccessfully to get the air con to work. I downloaded photos as each one came and went. Eventually we were moved to a new room. Air con, but no ceiling light. Like moving into a cave and slightly less damp sheets!! 

"Modern cash register" at lunch time.

hotel

Time to go downstairs to the internet area and use us some
 solid gold air time!

We went out after a light diner to listen to the cannon fire at 9 pm.People were walking and some older beggars just waiting. Music from so many cafe's and restaurants. And some good lighting on the older buildings. Definitely not as hot as during the day and much quieter. Only issue is dodging dog poo and potholes that have no warning/ barriers.

Not as hot back here but not cold either. At least our second room's air con does work, just have issues trying to shut the door without the handle falling off!! Always something in Cuba.

Day 20 Baracoa

Up early after a very hot night, even with the air con going all night. We were picked up at 9 for a tour of the town. First stop the museum which used to be the original fort (pirates). This tour was really interesting with a display of natural /man made objects/ historical and modern. I especially loved being able to get a close up of the yellow butterflies we had seen so often in our trip and samples of all the local timbers.

Next a walk through the town, where I finally got a good look at the food stalls/ shops. Jose took us to a bank on the way to change our money. There were guards outside and we were supposed to go in one at a time. But I think they took one look at how hot we were and took pity on us. After showing our passports our money problem was solved and we walked out with our cash.

The sun was relentless during the walk. It was so hot. Constantly pestered by people asking for soap/ shampoo, which is very expensive here. We stopped to look at the remains of the original cross of Christopher Columbus in the local church. It was originally very large, but was gradually reduced in size by people taking souvenirs. The church itself was just lovely- simple using many of the different kinds of local timber.

Eventually we met Vladimir and the gloriously cool bus, which took us to the cacao plantation. We learned about the making of chocolate from the cacao trees. The guide/ owner was a brilliant showman. His hot chocolate was the BEST EVER. I had four cups (small).

Next off to the “river cruise”, which consisted of our six fingered, six toed guide (who could count to 24 using his digits) rowing us up the River Toa and back again!!!!! So very peaceful. The big surprise was the emergence of a crayfish diver just as we were going past.

A lovely restful lunch by the river. The soup was served in a section of bamboo and ladled out of a “bowl” fashioned from a palm frond.

All too soon back on the bus to return to the hotel. Heather and I went for a swim and it was wonderful. The water was warm and in the shallow areas very warm, but so relaxing. Absolute bliss. Shower and washing then time to sit and download photos/ type before going up to the pool to get internet connections – we hope. The foyer is stinking hot. We are also on the hunt for envelopes for our guide/ driver tip!

Day 19 Santiago de Cuba to Baracoa

Woke early so after breakfast put on some information about our restaurant last night into both Facebook and Tripadvisor.

Jose was 5 mins late coming to the hotel. It was another long day of driving. Not as much traffic as previously, although there were always people waiting for buses and a few carts along the way.We drove through mile after mile of either bananas or cane fields, some cattle, some goats. Stopping for “roadworks” done by pouring the tar onto the hole from a bucket, then shovelling the stones on top!

We stopped at the small town of La Maya to see, and participate in, some traditional dancing and music. First on one side of the road, then on the other. Much more of an African beat. The saddest thing was seeing the condition of the double bass being used by one very enthusiastic young man.

Duct tape trying to hold one side together.  Fairly ordinary banos here and no paper. Onto lunch by the river near Guantanamo. Back to the same selection and presentation, with the band playing in the background.

Our next stop was a viewing point to see the U.S. Guantanamo military base, way in the distance. The young local guide’s talk was interesting. Given to America in 1902 and they pay $1400 per year lease on the land, but the Cuban government refuses to cash the cheque. It was a bit hazy to get a clear photo, but another 15 year old was having her photos taken. The toilet was awful.

Guantanamo Bay

On the bus for the long haul over the mountains to Baracoa. First you drive though very poor soil with a low rainfall- not quite as bad as our desert, but marginal compared to the rest of the island. The only significant plants grow along the dry river banks. The road passes very close to the sea and in places the water just looked magical – crystal clear, occasionally marred by litter. The hills come right down to the sea and sometimes the cactus went right beside the sea. NO sand.

The distant mountains were spectacular, and eventually we had to climb slowly up and over them. It was very disconcerting seeing broken railings along the way and all the landslips. When you looked closely at the cuttings, many more rocks were about to go with huge fissures everywhere! We stopped at the top, 545 M, then paid 1cuk to climb to the top of the viewing tower. Worth EVERY cent. The view was phenomenal and almost made up for my lack of breath. If the road up was scary, the way down was about the same, but it didn’t seem to be as steep and we often found villages perched up along the crest of hills. Lots of bananas and coffee.

Thankfully we got down safely and drove through the town of Baracoa, right on the beach, to our resort. Reportedly the exact spot that Christopher Columbus landed and planted his cross! It is a delightful cove. The LONG haul down to our cabins was an issue, the porter dragging / carrying the bags down step after step. We still had no change, so Heather had to give the ported 3cuk. I sat out on the balcony typing while Heather opted inside for the air-con. It was very hot but the breeze was blowing.

Shower, then dinner with the others, lots of sharing and laughing at Liam’s jokes and stories. Heather and I sat in the foyer to access the internet. The others had issues in their rooms. No power/ shower/ lack of fridge. Welcome to our standard of hotels. Another late night, because despite the air- con it was too hot and humid to get to sleep.

Day 18 Tour of Santiago de Cuba

We may not have driven hundreds of kms, but we were exhausted doing it.

The temperature today was 30+, but the humidity was 80% at 9:00. During the morning we all lost buckets of sweat.

Picked up at 8:45 and then went round the round a bout several times trying to find a parking space in the hotel opposite us, to pick up the others. Eventually worked our way through the one way streets and then down the road to Revolution Square as distinct from all the other Revolution squares! They have had so many revolutions and wars it is hard to keep up with each specific one. This one is VERY impressive and is where they have their major May Day march and where Pope John Paul 11 celebrated mass.

The statue on top is amazing- a combination of steel and bronze. I can never remember which general is which. But he died in battle and the steel structures around, represent the machetes of the people rising in revolt.

Then we cruised through the city to the Cemetery, where both locals and all the revolutionaries were buried. It is the oldest cemetery in Cuba and combines Carrara marble and local marble. But possibly the most impressive thing is the changing of the guard – in this heat- every half hour. Once again very impressive watching their meticulous timing. They have to especially choose guards who do not have to bend their heads to go under.  Our guide was so knowledgeable.

Many leaders were Masons. Symbolism everywhere.

From the cemetery back into the oldest part of town to visit a local museum, which was originally the first house in the town. They have done an amazing job of restoring it. I had to pay the usual $5 to photograph. The ceramics and carpentry were most impressive. Our guide was great – another tip.

Back on the bus after nearly expiring in the heat of all the marble of the cemetery. Off to San Juan Hill for another memorial, this time to the Cuban- Spanish- American War. Then off to see the next square dedicated to one of the wars/ revolutions before going to the original garrison that Castro and his men tried to unsuccessfully overtake, resulting in the deaths of many. At least we stood in the shade here.

Back on the bus to go to the harbour. Some ventured into the water to paddle. The broken bottles in the sand put me right off. This town is incredibly clean and tidy, so it was quite a shock to see so much litter at the small inlet.

Huge similarity to Spanish/ Moorish influence. 

Back on the bus, sweating profusely to go up the hill to the Castle Del Morro, which guarded the harbour from pirates and was later used as a prison for political prisoners, but lovely architecture. We walked to restaurant, where we all scoffed off our first drink in record time, before ordering a second. The usual meal of soup, salad, prawns/ chicken and ice- cream. Walked back to the bus at snail’s pace for some, the heat and humidity was so intense. But from here back to the hotel for a well-earned rest before dinner tonight.

Our washing was delivered at 4:45 after waking Heather up from a deep sleep with the phone. I was typing my notes after downloading photos.

Our towels for tonight.

Day 17 Camaguey to Santiago De Cuba

Up at 6:30. Packed bags. Breakfast, which included cups of tea and mango and even better no band. Left the hotel at 8:00 for a long day’s drive.

My mission today was to capture more party sayings and goats. So I sat in the front seat, which ended up costing me lots of time at the end of the day. I had to crop every photo to delete parts of the bus. I did have long chats with Jose during the day about life in Australia.

Sign for unsafe passing

The countryside varied between the very flat to the hilly final area. On the flats there was rice, corn, sugar and cattle. On the hills were bananas, sugar cane, cattle and goats. The flats were very fertile and there was several significant rivers, but soon after crossing one river the country just totally changed to hilly and so did the houses to smaller, mainly wooden in the small villages and much smaller holdings.

one of the many grass cutters 

The same variety of traffic on a narrower road, but after Bayamo the road was appalling in places – pothole after pothole, so passing horses/ carts/ bicycles was slightly more difficult and often we had to wait until it was safe. There were several close calls involving goats walking in front of the bus! Lucky Vladimir was alert.

A delicious beef lunch at Bayamo. Once again the town square was lined with families enjoying time together under the shade of the large trees.

Another long section took us to the Basilica dedicated the Virgin of the Caridad del Cobre. The name comes from the nearby copper mines, which are now closed. The inside of the church was just beautiful, as were the magnificent stain glass windows. There were many bunches of yellow sunflowers – tokens to Mary. 

Only a short trip down to the city of Santiago and our hotels. The others were over the road and we were in the Hotel Las Americas. definitely not 5 stars. Thankfully on the bottom floor, as we have just heard that the elevator is not working! Gave our heavy dirty stuff to the chamber maid for cleaning ($18.60) and unpacked, before settling in the lobby to have a cuppa and work on our computers.

Unfortunately my photos were not downloading quickly and I discovered my computer’s memory was almost full, so I downloaded most of the photos onto a memory stick to clear space. This then created an additional problem of the computer needing to download every photo on the card, rather than reading just today’s. Consequently what should have been a quick task took hours. Most of which was done in the bathroom because that is the only power point we can use. 

In the meantime we went to dinner and were the only ones in the restaurant. Serenaded by the two person group- reasonable fish for main course, but the mango ice cream was lovely. Back to the room to keep working until late.

Finally finished photos, but it was too late to go out to foyer to email news. Our air con is possibly the loudest one in the world? Lucky I have ear plugs.

Bedtime.

this is the ordinary transport of the locals

Day 16 Trinidad to Camaguey

Woke to an overcast sky that stayed all day. Heather was feeling much better. Picked up bags and were waiting for Jose and crew before 8. They came early- no surprise.

Drove through fields of cane today and lots of cattle grazing. The day started with the drive through the beautiful, lush Valle de Los Ingenios, where there had been 18 sugar cane mills. We stopped to view the huge tower built specifically to keep an eye on the slaves. Of course there were the usual stalls but this time they were selling mostly incredible handmade embroidered tablecloths and table runners. We stopped to have a drink in the original country house of the plantation owner, whose city house we visited yesterday.

Valle de Los Ingenios

Back on the bus for a long two hour+ drive along a secondary road constructed with government funds by a corrupt individual who put 20% of the cost into his pocket. Consequently the road is a tight squeeze in places. Sometimes we had to slow right down behind a bike / cart. We drove though lovely countryside. Once again many carts, people walking along, waiting patiently for buses, waving their notes at us for a ride, bicycles and tractors. A few motor bikes and fewer cars. It must have been washing day. So many homes had washing waving in the wind- so clean and so white. Even the most primitive home appeared clean and tidy, often with someone sweeping/ cleaning out side. The usual slogans along the road and the statues of the heroes of the revolution.

We stopped for a break at Florida, then onto Camaguey. The city that defies a GPS/ map. It is such a labyrinth, that Jose had to ask directions many times. By now it was very hot. Eventually we found our fabulous restaurant and had the best meal of the entire trip. Delicious beef and vegies and of course there was a band! And of course we had to pay a tip.

Next we were joined by our local guide. The group was divided into three and we went on the local version of three wheel tourist taxis. Heather and I just squeezed into the back and we had the chief guide. He took us around to four important sites in the town. We saw some fabulous local art work Martha Jiminez. The town is another heritage site. The old section is just quaint and the “modernish” areas have been upgraded, but is definitely not concrete, steel and glass.

Jose left us in the square while he tried to find Vladimir, which took quite a while. The city is a labyrinth. Eventually we got our bags and possessions and walked down to the hotel to check in. Hot and sweaty. Heather and I went down to the desk to exchange money, get one more card and inquire about the internet. He sent us to the next hotel who sent me up to the office of the local phone company office to get cards.

Strange system. No numbers, but you had to wait for your turn to be served and you needed a passport to get a maximum of three- 1 cuk each and only lasts for ½ hour. Thankfully a young man in there spoke reasonable English and was able to help me. Back to the square to meet Heather to find I’d missed a punch up! We sat and had a drink in the square. It was incredibly hot. Back to the hotel for a WELL deserved shower. Downloaded photos and then off to dinner upstairs, which was better than the last hotel. But our room is “less than spacious”. Another very busy day. Music is pounding outside and we are on the third floor.

Day 13 Vinales

Woken by the alarm just in time to see the sun rise over the flats outside. If I stretched a bit further I could see the sea. Breakfast was more crowded than yesterday and absolutely no internet connections again. I think this hotel is just selling a non-existent product.

Sunrise

Picked up at 8:45 for the long day’s journey towards the very west of the island – about 170kms there and obviously 170 kms back again. We passed lots of people movers during the day. The beginning of the day saw many converted trucks being used to haul people around. Some buses, bikes, cars, horse and carts and all kinds of pushbike combinations. We travelled down a very good highway, passing several check points, but didn’t have to stop. There were many soldiers along the road using machetes to trim grass and bushes, but the funniest one I saw was one pushing and old lawn mower along a huge median strip! Under every bridge there were people waiting to catch a bus or some form of transport.

looking over Vinales valley

Lake along the way

It was very rural and very green. Lots of farms- bananas, mangoes, corn, beans, yams/ sweet potatoes, rice, tobacco, cows, cattle, goats, and chickens. Many fences were living fences made by cutting the tops out of trees especially planted in rows. Very few tractors, lots of cattle pulling ancient ploughs, drovers minding flocks/ herds or individual horses or cows. People sitting waiting patiently for transport or just sitting on their front porches rocking or in some of the towns doing their work under the shade of the verandah. Women walking around along roads or in towns carrying large umbrellas to protect against the very hot sun.

Buildings were once again a mix of very old and in need of repair to brightly coloured homes and everything in between. We saw lots of thatched tobacco drying sheds.

And the countryside was just beautiful, especially the area around Vinales and the valley/ mountains. The flame trees were in full flower and looked so pretty against the green of the country. We stopped several times during the day once at a toilet stop where we also had a delicious pina colada (no rum). Cigar factory, another rum factory, lunch near the limestone caves, the rock paintings, a tobacco farm- where I got stung by a stinging nettle,  and then a stop on top of the viewpoint where the clouds opened up after several loud claps of thunder and it bucketed down. Then sunshine for a while until the next downpour and so on all the way back to the hotel.

Tobacco farmer

inside the limestone caves

The one things that was a bit “tiring” was the constant and unrelenting demand for tips. Every toilet break costs 25c. Every time they play music somewhere they want a tip if not for you to buy their dvd!

Another dinner with the group by the wharf area in a boutique beer factory. Slight issue with a mix up in our booking but soon solved. Bugs galore while we were eating. Thankfully Vikki had her bug repellent. 

Internet stopped just as I was loading,so some photos did not attach. About to pour here.